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35th Congress, ) SENATE. 

1st Session. ) 






REPORT 

OF THE 

SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR, 



COMMUNICATING 



The report of John Claiborne, esq. , special agent appointed to collect 
statistics on the consumption of cotton in Europe. 



March 22, 1858.— Read and ordered to lie on the table 

Mbbch 23, 1858.— Motion to print referred to the Committee on Printing. 

March 30, 1858.— Report in favor of printing 5,000 copi'es in addition to the usual 

number, submitted, considered, and agreed to. 



Department of the Interior, 

March 19, 1858. 

Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith the report of John 
Claiborne, esq., the special agent appointed by the Commissioner of 
Patents to collect and report information upon the consumption of 
cotton in Europe. 

Annexed to that portion of the report which relates to Bremen 
will be found a memoir upon the consumption of cotton in the Zoll 
Verein, for which the department is indebted to the courtesy of Doctor 
Schleiden, minister resident from the Free and Hanseatic Republic of 
Bremen. 

With great re3pect, your obedient servant, 

J. THOMPSON, 
Secretary of the Interior. 
Hon. John C. Breckenridge, 
President of the Senate. 



United States Patent Office, 

March 19, 1858. 

Sir : Agreeably to the clause in the act of Congress of March 3, 
1857, for the collection of agricultural statistics, investigations for 
promoting agriculture and rural economy, and the procurement and 
distribution of cuttings and seeds, and to enable the Commissioner of 



2 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

Patents to collect and report information in relation to the consump- 
tion of cotton in the several countries of the world, I have the honor 
herewith to transmit the report of John Claiborne, the agent ap- 
pointed to collect the cotton statistics of Europe under the clause in 
said act. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

J. HOLT, Commissioner. 
Hon. Jacob Thompson, 

Secretary of the Interior. 



Department of the Interior, 

May 11, 1857. 

Sir: A recent appropriation having been made by Congress "to 
enable the Commissioner of Patents to collect and report information 
in relation to the consumption of cotton in the several countries of 
the world," you have been selected to aid in carrying out the objects 
of that appropriation. f 

To render the desired information more reliable and complete, it 
has been judged expedient that you should visit different portions of 
Europe ; and, a* it is important that the result of your investigations 
should be laid before Congress at an early day of its next session, it 
will be necessary that you should commence your labors with the 
least possible delay. 

Time will not permit you to visit all the countries in the world 
where cotton is consumed, nor would such a course be expedient if it- 
were practicable. You will probably be able to extend your personal 
observations to the most important points in England, France, Rus- 
sia, Switzerland, Austria, Prussia, and perhaps some of the other 
countries of Europe. You will here find sources of information ex- 
tending to all quarters of the globe, and which will be sufficient to 
satisfy the present expectations of Congress. 

Though the consumption of cotton abroad is the great subject of in- 
quiry, your attention should not be limited too narrowly to that one 
point. It is evidently the intention of Congress to ascertain all facts 
which have a bearing, either directly or indirectly, upon that matter. 
The ultimate design is to benefit the cotton producing and cotton 
manufacturing interest of the United States. 

Whatever will tend to this end is a subject of practical importance, 
and is recommended to your earnest and careful attention. 

The traffic in this commodity, its manufacture, and even its produc- 
tion in foreign countries, have a bearing upon its consumption, either 
present or prospective, and all facts relating to any of these matters 
will be within the proper scope of your inquiries. 

Perhaps the clearest and most intelligible course of investigation 
will be suggested by an attempt to trace a bale of cotton from the time 
it leaves the plantation of the producer till it reaches the hands of the 
ultimate consumer. Every mile by which this route can be shortened, 
every obstacle which can be removed or avoided, every cent of expense 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 3 

which can be saved, are advantages the benefits of which will be 
shared between the two individuals who stand at the extremes of this 
line of transit, and will cause not only an augmentation in the price 
of the raw material, but will create a larger consumption, and thus 
call for a larger supply of the commodity. 

This, and subjects naturally connected therewith, will suggest all 
material inquiries which will be necessary in order to satisfy the ob- 
jects of the appropriation. 

In carrying out the general design thus intimated your own judg- 
ment and sagacity will be chiefly relied upon. 

It is impossible to mark out with precision, beforehand, all the de- 
tails of an investigation where the ascertainment of one fact will often 
suggest others and render them material, where unexpected items of 
information will frequently present themselves, and where those which 
were anticipated will often be found to be beyond reach. It is thought 
proper, however, to specify, with greater particularity, some points 
and suggestions which have been already referred to in a more general 
manner. 

The following points are, therefore, presented, as proper guides for 
your attention and inquiry, and as embracing chiefly, if not entirely, 
the grounds you are expected to examine. 

1. Ascertain the amount of cotton consumed in the manufactories of 
each city, district, or country, either in Europe, or any other portion 
of the earth where cotton is manufactured ; the amount of capital in- 
vested in such manufacturing establishments ; the number of looms and 
spindles; the number of hands employed, and the average rate of 
wages paid to the employes. Aggregate results for each country or 
district are desirable, as far as practicable. 

2. The immediate sources from whence these establishments actually 
procure their raw material ; the nearest seaport where they might be 
furnished direct from the United States, and the diminution of cost 
which might be effected by any change in the course of trade. 

3. If direct trade were established, what are the commodities we 
should receive in exchange. Would this be sufficient in amount to 
furnish adequate return freights for the vessels employed in the trans- 
portation of cotton. 

4. What proportion of the supplies furnished to these establish- 
ments is in the shape of yarn, and what in the shape of raw cotton. 
Ascertain the price of each, in order to show what profit is made by 
the manufacturer of the yarn. 

5. What is the quality, grade, or number of the yarn principally 
used, and is it such as could be produced by the unskilled labor on 
plantations, or in the southern cities. 

6 To what countries do the manufacturers of Europe generally send 
their yarns and goods, and what diminution of expense would result 
from manufacturing or spinning in our own country, and shipping 
direct to those countries. 

7. What duties are levied on cotton or yarn respectively ; their 
effect en the consumption of each; the feasibility of procuring their 
remission or modification, and the probable effect on consumption of 
such remission. 



4 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

8. What are the agencies in each country whieh are now tending 
either to advance or check the consumption of cotton. 

9. What new modes of applying cotton to the use of man are now 
in use in Europe; to what extent is it used for mixing with wool in 
making cloths, cordage, or for any other purpose. 

10. What proportion of the cotton goods consumed in each country 
is imported, and what supplied at home. 

11. Examine the subject in its financial aspect; inquire how, in the 
actual operations of commerce, a merchant could have his orders for 
cotton executed, and pay therefor at the ports of exportation. Ex- 
amine also into the nature and course of exchange operations that 
would thus arise, and the practicability of avoiding the necessity of 
English or French banking credits. 

12. Direct some attention to the subject of the production of cotton 
in foreign countries, with a view of ascertaining whether our planters 
may apprehend any formidable competition from auy such source; 
what are the obstacles in the way of such foreign production, and are 
they such as are likely to removed hereafter. 

It is not intended in the suggestion of the foregoing points to limit 
you rigidly by them. They are intended to aid, and not restrain in- 
vestigation. Any other matters which may suggest themselves to 
your mind, calculated to promote the general object in view, should 
be made the subjects of inquiry. Nor is it supposed that upon each 
and all of the heads above enumerated full and explicit information 
can be obtained. Where this is found impracticable, or very incon- 
venient, time should not be wasted in fruitless searches. 

You will keep this department constantly informed of your move- 
ments, and by what channel of communication you are to be addressed, 
in case further directions or suggestions be thought expedient. 

J. THOMPSON, 
Secretary of Interior. 

John Clairborne, Esq. 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



REPORT. 



To the Hon. Joseph Eolt, Commissioner of Patents : 

Sir : Congress having, at its last session, made an appropriation 
for the collection, under the direction of your bureau, of statistical 
information as to the consumption of cotton in the various countries 
ot the world, the undersigned received from the honorable the Secre- 
tary of the Interior the appointment as agent to carry out the inten- 
tion of the legislative department. 

It was soon recognized that the amount of the appropriation was 
wholly inadequate to the investigation of the subject, in the manner 
and to the extent warranted by its importance, in either the agricul- 
tural or commercial point of view ; and, under these circumstances, I 
was directed to proceed, without unnecessary delay, to France and other 
continental countries of Europe, and, with all practical despatch, col- 
lect as much information as it might be in my power to do previous 
to the re-assembling of Congress. 

On my arrival at Paris, about the beginning of June last, I called 
upon the Hon. John Y. Mason, the minister of the United States to 
the French empire, and made known the object of my visit. He re- 
ceived me most cordially, and, throughout my stay in Europe, mani- 
fested the warmest desire to forward the object of the investigation by 
procuring for me facilities, not only in France, but elsewhere. Mr. 
Alexander Vattemare, agent of the patent office at Paris, also cheer- 
fully aided me, and was the means of procuring for me much valuable 
information, not only at the capital, but in the manufacturing districts 
of Mulhouse. 

Below will be found the results of the investigation, so far as it has 
been carried on, under the head of the countries visited. On no point 
is the information obtained so full and detailed as it might have been 
made under more favorable circumstances, or as it should be for the 
proper understanding of the subject, while, on some points of the in- 
structions, it has been wholly impracticable, from want of time, to 
procure any reliable information. 

This cause prevented an examination into the amount of consump- 
tion and the condition of cotton manufacture in Holland, Bavaria, 
Wurtemburg, and Spain, which last country has, during the past few 
years, required a largely increased supply of our cotton for the 
spinning mills of Catalonia. 

FRANCE. 

France ranks next after Great Britain in the quantity and value 
of the cotton wool consumed, while the variety of articles into which 
it is fabricated is much greater. In the taste and beauty of her tissues 
she justly claims the first place among modern nations. Her mills 



b CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, 

send forth every description of cotton goods — from the common calicoes 
of Rouen to the richly figured muslins of Mulhouse, the gossamer 
tulles of Saint Quentin, and the exquisite tarlatanes of Tarare. 

Scarcely sixty years have passed away since the first attempts at 
cotton spinning were made at Paris, at a period, too, when the first 
French revolution was ahout to shake the country to its centre, to 
overthrow the old political system, to convulse society, and to affect 
for a time, at least, most injuriously all the material interests con- 
nected with it. The progress of this new industry was, therefore, but 
slow for a considerable number of years after it was first planted. 

From Paris cotton spinning spread rather gradually towards the 
departments of the north and east. According to Moreau de Jonnes, 
(Statistics of the Industry of France; Paris, 1856,) the first mule 
jenny used in France was imported from England into Ghent, (re- 
cently acquired by the French arms,) by the Brothers Bauwen, and 
presented to the first consul. 

The first cotton spinning in the department of the east, of which 
Mulhouse is now the central point, and which embraces portions of 
ancient Lorraine and Alsace, was in the establishment of Wesserling, 
in the year 1803, and specimens of yarn spun, either by hand or by 
the mule jenny, were exhibited at the Exposition of 1806 ; from which 
date it was recognized as " one of the established ' industries ' of the 
country, and the fabrication of cotton rapidly became one of the lead- 
ing interests, rivalling in its importance and value, in the commercial 
movements, that of the cereals." 

In 1816, the kilogramme of raw cotton was, as stated by Moreau de 
Jonnes, worth six francs, or about $1 12; and in 1851 it had dimin- 
ished to 1 franc and 50 centimes, or about 28 cents, " and four times 
the quantity of cotton fabrics can be had for the same sum of money, 
while the proportion of 5 kilogrammes, or 11 pounds of cotton to every 
five inhabitants, had increased to 2 kilogrammes, or 4-f pounds to 
each inhabitant; or, in its manufactured state, was sufficient to have 
furnished every inhabitant of the country with 18 metres, or about 20 
yards of ordinary calico." 

With respect to its cotton manufactures, France may be considered 
as divided into three great groups or districts, although there are 
many spinneries, weaving, bleaching or other establishments, not 
within the limits of either. These groups or "circles," as they are 
generally called by the French manufacturers, or merchants, are : 
Normandy, of which Rouen is the centre ; the east, with Mulhouse ; 
and the northeast, with its cities of Saint Quentin, Roubaix and Lille. 
Each of these circles has its reputation for the production of particu- 
lar descriptions of fabrics or tissues ; thus Rouen is famed for the 
coarser styles and low prices, and is called the workshop of the poor ; 
Mulhouse is famed for its Indiennes and its printed muslins, unrivalled, 
it is said, for beauty and richness of texture and coloring, and the 
taste displayed in their designs, by those of any other fabrication ; 
Saint Quentin sends out the finest descriptions of tulles, organdies, 
&c. ; while Lille and Valenciennes are the seats of the lace manufac- 
tories. 

Tarare, near Lyons, has of late years sent into the Parisian markets 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 7 

the most beautiful and costly tarlatanes and embroideries, in the latter 
respect rivalling the renowned fabrics of St. Gall and Appenzell, in 
Switzerland ; and Calais is following fast in the footsteps of Notting- 
ham, in the production of bobbinets, and that description of laces for 
which the latter city has so long enjoyed a high degree of celebrity. 

It was not in my power to obtain precise details of the establish- 
ment and progress of cotton manufacture in any of the above named 
circles save that of the east ; and these are owing to the courtesy of 
Mr. Emile Dolfus, president of the Industrial Society of Mulhouse, 
who furnished me with a copy of his very valuable and interesting 
notes, read before that body in the months of November and Decem- 
ber, 185ft, and which show, on every page, that they are the result of 
the most careful and conscientious study and examination into the 
subject. 

After cotton spinning was introduced in 1803, it remained nearly 
stationary until 1809-'10, when it began to increase in importance, 
and water power was first substituted for hand labor ; the use of steam 
not being known until 1812, in the mill of Messrs. Dolfus, Meig & Co. 
The next five years brought with them wars, invasions, and political 
changes and excitements, which affected injuriously all kinds of in- 
dustry Between 1818 and 1825, prosperity had returned, and new 
and numerous establishments had been erected and put in operation ; 
commercial derangements in 1828, and the revolution in 1830, had in 
turn, their disastrous influence, which was again felt by the money 
crisis of 1837, and 1842-'43. Since 1851, the march has been rapid, 
and the business has met with its fair share of success and profit until 
the crisis of the present year, 1857, came on, under which it will 
have to share the suffering undergone by all manufacturing interests 
throughout Europe and America ; a suffering which will, in all pro- 
bability, be but temporary, to be succeeded by a long course of pros- 
perity for them all. 

Cotton weaving began in this circle, at Mulhouse, in 1746, the first 
articles manufactured being Indiennes, the thread used being spun by 
hand, those spun by machinery not coming into use until more than 
half a century afterwards, in the year 1800 ; and the flying shuttle 
being first employed in 1805. Shortly after this latter period the 
importation of cotton tissues into France was prohibited ; a policy 
which has been maintained to the present clay, amid all changes of 
government, and to even a modification of which the mill owners, 
with the rarest exceptions, manifest a stubborn spirit of opposition. 

Weaving made as much progress, undergoing the same occasional 
and temporary reverses, as spinning and other branches of cotton 
manufacture ; it extended gradually from the department of Haut 
Rhin into the other five which composed the circle, the mill owners 
generally adopting with readiness all new inventions in that branch, 
and the old system of hand looms disappeared before power looms, 
worked by water or steam, until in 1856, of the total number of looms 
in the district, forty-two thousand three hundred and twenty-nine, 
(42,329) there were"33,472 power, and only 10,859 hand. 

Cotton printing was established in Alsace at Mulhouse at the same 



8 CO SUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

time as weaving, and shortly attained to that reputation for the quality 
of its products which it has ever since enjoyed. 

In connexion with many of the printing establishments are those 
for bleaching and dressing goods. The extensive establishment of 
Dolfus, Meig & Co., at Mulhouse, combines all t" e processes which 
the raw material undergoes from the time it reaches the mill doors 
until it is despatched to market ; and within its walls one may witness 
spinning, weaving, plain and figured, bleaching, (by a process con- 
sidered by many superior to any elsewhere to be found,) dyeing and 
printing, (both by block and cylinders,) dressing and packing lor 
market. Its chief is Mr. Jean Dolfus, who not only received your 
agent with much politeness, but manifested great interest in the sub- 
jects of his inquiry, and a disposition to afford him all possible in- 
formation in its various branches. 

According to Mr. Emile Dolfus, in the publication above alluded to, 
there are now in the circle of the east, which comprises the depart- 
ments of Haut Rhin, Bas Rhin, La Haute Sadne, Doubs, Les Vosges, 
and La Meurthe, 109 spinneries, worked, 74 by steam and 97 by 
water, with an aggregate horse power of 8,199. These establishments 
have a total of 1,498,440 spindles for ordinary yarns, and 16,886 for 
twist, which makes the proportion of 183 to each unit of horse power; 
or if, as Mr. Dolfus remarks, it is considered that many of the steam 
engines are only auxiliary to water, which is subject to changes in its 
force and volume, the proportion will be really somewhat less. 

The general proportion of spindles for ordinary numbers of yarns, 
27-29 for warp, and 36-38 for woof, is from" 180 to 200 for each unit 
of horse power. 

The spindles were used as follows : 

For waste and numbers under 20 75,000 

Ordinary numbers 24 to 40, warp or woof. 1,000,000 

Numbers between 40 and 70 75,000 

Fine numbers from 70 to 200 350,000 

The produclions of yarns was 44,000,000 pounds, equal in value to 
$13,020,000, or 37 T V cents the pound. 

The number of workmen employed by these establishments was 
29,995 ; the wages paid, as I was informed by a mill owner, an average 
of three francs for men ; for women two francs ; and for boys and girls 
from twenty centimes to one franc, per day. 

Mr. Dolfus estimates the annual cost of spinning, per spindle, at an 
average of 35 francs, or $6 51. He also gives a table of the prices of 
raw cotton at Mulhouse since the year 1811, when it was 14 francs 
85 centimes the kilo, or about $1 33 cents the pound, to 1856, when 
it had fallen to the average of 2.02 francs the kilo, or 12 cents the 
pound, for the classifications used in spinning ordinary yarns. 

In 1811, the average price of the yarns at Mulhouse (27-29 warp 
and 36-38 woof) was 25 francs 61 centimes the kilo, or about $2 33 
the pound, from which it had fallen, in 1856, to three francs the kilo, 
or 23 cents the pound. 

The number of weaving mills in the circle in 1856 is placed at 136, 
employing 37,897 hands, of whom 25,104 are engaged on power, and 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. JJ 

the remainder on hand looms. The production of cloths had increased, 
from two million pieces of 130 million of metres, or 140,833,333 yards, 
to two and a half million pieces, of a total of 250 million metres, or 
270,833,333 yards. 

It had almost doubled during the last decade, and its value was set 
down at 100 million of francs or 18,600,000 dollars ; the average 
price for ordinary calicoes in the Mulhouse market, which in 1835 
was 77^ centimes, or near 14 cents the metre, had fallen to 39 centimes, 
or near eight cents. 

There were 25 printing mills, employing 10,400 hands, printing 
51,900,000 metres of stuffs (or 56,225,000 yards) of the value of 
51,500,000 francs, or $9,579,000. 

Mr. Dolfus thus sums up the condition of the cotton manufacture 
in the circle in 1856, as regards capital invested and the ordinary ex- 
penses of working, &c, francs being reduced into American dollars. 
The entire number of hands employed being 78,812, and the motive 
power that of 14,323 horses : 

Spinning, at a mean average of $6 51 per spindle, for 

1,513,306 spindles, say $9,750,746 

Weaving, by mechanism, at $139 50 the loom, of which 

there were 33,472 4,670,340 

Weaving, by hand, at $22 32 each, for 10,875 looms, 

buildings and machinery included 231,800 

Printing 2,418,000 

Bleaching and dressing 372,000 

Total 17,442,886 



These establishments had cost at least 29,760,000 dollars ; the 
wages yearly paid to their hands amounted to 6,596,000 dollars ; and 
the annual value of all their different productions, amounted to 
fortv-one millions, four hundred and seventy-eight thousand dollars, 
($41,478,000.) 

By far the greater portion of cotton- wool consumed in the circle of 
Mulhouse is of American growth, and " middling" to "middling 
fair" qualities; there is some Sea Island and Egyptian also used; 
but Brazilian, East Indian or other growths are but little known. 
Nearly the whole of the raw material goes via Havre, and thence 
by railway. Fuel is scarce and dear, the coal which is used being 
brought from Burgundy, along the canal which connects the Rhone 
and the Rhine, or from Coblenz, on the latter stream. Under the 
most favorable circumstances it is said to cost three times as much as 
in England. Labor is, however, abundant ; and while they admit that 
they can never rival England in ordinary and cheap cotton fabrics, 
and must depend upon the superior quality, taste and elegance of 
their fabrics, for a profitable market, the Mulhouse mill-owners are, 
as a general thing, well pleased with their business and the profits 
which it affords. 

It is to be regretted that there has not as yet appeared in the circle 
of Rouen any one who, like Mr. Dolfus, at Mulhouse, is the historian 



10 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 

and statistician of its great manufacturing interests, as it is certainly 
well worthy, in extent and importance of the effort. 

In his very interesting and instructive volume, L' Industrie con- 
temporaine, ses caracteres et ses progres chez les differents peuples du 
monde, Paris, 1856 — (Contemporaneous Industry, its characteristics 
and progress among the different people of the world) — M. Audi- 
ganne says of the Normand Group, that if the number of spindles 
and the amount of raw material which they require, be considered, it 
is the first in France ; as out of the seventy to seventy-two millions 
of kilogrammes which France consumes, they absorb about thirty 
millions ; and of the five millions of spindles, which he estimates as 
the actual total in the country, it has between one and a half and two 
millions, though as regards the value of its products it does not pre- 
serve this relative position. While its fabrics are almost exclusively 
of the heavier and coarse qualities, at low prices, Rouen also manu- 
factures for Algeria a species of very superior bleached cloth, which 
is in great respect for burnouses, &c, among the Arab population. It 
has also given the trade name of Rouennaises to those fabrics of its 
mills which are composed of yarn dyed before it is woven, the hues of 
which are often mingled in odd and striking contrast. 

The circle of Rouen is composed of the departments of La Seine 
Inferieure, L' Eure, and Orne. 

To the vice president and secretary of the chamber of commerce of 
the city I am under great obligations for their kindness, and the 
facilities for obtaining information which they afforded me. 

The consumption for the year 1857, of this circle, was estimated at 
140,000 bales, of 220 kilogrammes each, or 67,000,000 pounds, of 
which 15,000 bales, of not over 300 pounds, or the total weight of four 
and a half million pounds of Surats, &c, was included. 

Very little Algerian or Egyptian is consumed, and that of other 
growths does not seem to be known, or at least asked for, in the 
market. 

Rouen is one of the two points on the continent, at which there was 
to my mind any evidence of an increase in the consumption of East 
Indian cotton, and its use for spinning unmixed with the longer 
stapled and finer qualities of the United States, or other crops. The 
other point was at Ghent ; and at both the reason assigned was, the 
very high price of American cotton, which compelled the spinners to 
look for other supplies. 

The qualities of American (United States) cottons principally in 
demand at Rouen are "middlings" and "good middlings;" the 
waste upon which, for " middling," is 4 to 5 per cent. ; on " ordi- 
nary," 6 to 7 ; and in "low ordinary," from 7 to 11 per cent. Of 
the East Indian cottons, from Bombay, the waste is generally 20 per 
cent, greater than that of the corresponding classifications of Ameri- 
can ; the Madras cottons are, however, of better quality than those 
from Bombay. 

In this circle the yarns spun range in numbers between 4 and 36, 

the bulk of them being, according to a leading spinner, No. 26 ; the 

average price for that quality is 3 francs 60 centimes the kilo, or about 

22 cents the pound. 

It is claimed for the French yarn that it is ten per cent, superior to that 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



11 



spun in England. The chief export of yarn from Rouen is of No. 
20, for warps, which goes to Germany. The wages paid average 3 
francs per day for men, and 1^ francs for women and girls. The pro- 
portion of the hands employed is two females to one male, and the 
length of the working day, as at Mulhouse, is 12 hours. 

The following tables are derived from a publication of the Rouen 
Chamber of Commerce, entitled iC Statistics of the Maratime Com- 
merce, and the Exportations of Tissues of Cotton and of Wool from 
the port of Rouen, during the year 1855. Rouen : 1856." 

Comparative table of the Tissues of Cotton despatched from the custom 
at liouen, either by sea or land, during the years 1853, 1854, and 
1855. Kilogrammes reduced to pounds. 



Description 


of tissues. 


Quantities exported to the colonies in — 


1853. 


1854. 


1855. 








Pounds. 
... 855,496 


5 


Powids. 
718.947 
704,846 

12,648 

864,773 


Pounds. 
943, 182 


Handkerchiefs . 






788,452 

5,584 

... 5.912,275 


776,987 

86.277 
7,288,877 












Total . . . 


'■ 7.561.807 


7 


301,214 


9,995,323 







In the above are not included the cotton yarns exported, which amounted, in 1853, to 
82, 244 pounds ; in 1854, to 69, 980 pounds ; in 1S55, to 69, 705 pounds. 





Quantities 


exported to foreign countries. 




Description of tissues. 


1 

1S53. 


1854. 


1855. 


Eouenneries 




Pounds. 
226,666 


Pounds. 

259,510 

234.087 

12,597 

11,589 


Pounds. 


Indiennes ... 




1 334.290 


283 050 


Handkerchiefs 




! 16,969 


58 014 


Calicoes 




i 23,235 


74 098 










Total 


: 601,160 


517,783 


772,739 



Totals for colonies and foreign countries. 



Description of tissues. 


1853. 


1854. 


1855. 


Eouenneries 


Pounds. 

1,782,142 

1,122,741 

22,552 

5,937,509 


Pounds. 

978,457 

939,013 

22,245 

5,S76,363 


Pounds. 
1, 300, 759 


Indiennes ... 


1, 060, 037 




144,291 

7.h'.2,978 


Total 


8,864,944 


7,816,078 


. , 868,065 







12 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

Of these exportations, there came to the United States, in the year 
1853, 55,748 pounds ; in 1854, 47,828 pounds; and in 1855, 69,179 
pounds ; the values not being given. 

The mills in Brittany, like those of Normandy, supply only the 
lower numbers of yarns and cheap stuffs ; those of French Flan- 
ders, on the contrary, turn out the finest and most costly description 
of tulles, blondes, and gauzes, and it is there that is consumed almost 
the entire importation of our sea-island cottons. It has not been long 
since the artisans of Tarare began to send into market those exqui- 
sitely fine and beautiful fabrics of cotton which have won the admira- 
tion of all who behold them. In cotton embroideries Tarare produces 
articles " quite equal to the best Swiss in fineness, suppleness, and 
finish ; and superior to them in the chasteness and beauty of their 
patterns." The perfection of the skill and taste they display in the 
finer and and more costly styles of cotton stuffs may be appreciated 
from the fact, as stated by M. Audiganne, that when the society of 
churchwardens of Nancy desired to present an embroidered robe to 
the Empress Eugenie, they procured it to be made at Tarare, the 
threads being number 480, and the amount of raw cotton used for it 
being half a kilogramme, or one and one-tenth pounds. If, says M. 
Audiganne, the thread used for this robe, and coming from so small 
an amount of material, had been extended in a line, it would have 
reached 480 kilomatres, or 120 leagues. This distance is nearly equal 
to 291 English miles. 

But by far the greater portion of the yarn spun and woven in 
France is of the numbers running from 12 to 80, the use of any above 
the latter being considered as exceptional ; as a matter of economy 
in their operations, the mill owners regard the spinning of 50 kilo- 
grammes of cotton into the finer numbers, as requiring as much labor 
as to turn from 700 to 800 kilogrammes into the lower ones. Up to 
the year 1834, the importation of yarns was prohibited ; and since 
that date the relaxation of the policy only operates in favor of those 
above No. 143, the duty upon which is regulated by weight. 

Of late years the production of yarns in France has not only suf- 
ficed for home consumption, but has also been exported in considerable 
quantities to other countries. 

M. Moreau de Jonnes, in his late very valuable work, u La Sta- 
tisque de U Industrie de la France," (Statistics of French Industry,) 
has a chapter on cotton which abounds in interesting facts and specu- 
lations. After giving a rapid sketch of the rise and progress of the 
manufacture in France, the author proceeds to show its influence upon 
the industrial and commercial wealth of the country, as it at present 
exists. According to this high authority, the value of the production 
of cotton tissues, and its relation to the population, was, in the year 
1812, 176,000,000 of francs, or $32,736,000, being 6 francs, or $1 12, 
to each inhabitant ; while in 1850 it was 334,000,000 of francs, or 
$62,124,000, being 10 francs to each inhabitant. By the census of 
1851, the population of France was 35,783,170. Says M. de Jonnes, 
p. 76, " The 62,000,000 (kilogrammes) imported for the spinneries, 
being transformed into tissues and other fabrics, worth at least 
334,000,000 of francs, the industry of our manufactures quintuples 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 13 

the value of the raw material, and augments it four times ; or, in 
other words, gives it an increased value of 250,000,000 of francs." 
Estimating the total consumption by Great Britain, Continental 
Europe, and the United States, at the time he was writing, (probably 
1855,) at the round sum of 502,000,000 kilogrammes, or 1,104,400,000 
pounds, he says: "At 1 fr. 50 centimes (the kilogramme) here is a 
value of 753,000,000 (or $140,058,000.) If the raw material should 
be everywhere quintupled, as in France, the annual industrial pro- 
duction of cotton would be near 4,000,000." 

" Certainly, when Columbus remarked at the Lucayas a bush with 
mallow flowers, the seeds of which were enveloped in a silky down, 
he did not anticipate that there was a treasure far more precious than 
the gold mines of Cibao, and that it would have been better for him 
to have put the Indians to planting cotton, than to digging into the 
auriferous hills of Hayti, which were to become their tombs." 

M. de Jonnes gives tabular statements as to each branch of cotton 
manufacture in France, which are embodied herein as well worthy 
your attention. For convenience sake, the French weights and values 
have been reduced to our own standards. His estimate of the number 
of spindles is considerably below that of several other authorities — M. 
Audiganne placing the number at 5,000,000. 

COTTON SPINNING. 

Number of mills 566 

Communes in which they are found 275 

Their consumption of raw material, (lbs.) 138,226,000 

Value of the same $17,519,756 

Quantity of cotton spun, waste not included, (lbs.) 127,600,000 

Total value of the yarn spun , $27,379,200 

Number of hands employed 63,064 

(of whom, 22,807 men, at 37 cents ; 23,531 women, at 
19 cents ; and 16,726 children, at 10 cents per day.) 

Haw material per centum .65 

Salaries, general expenses, and profits, do .35 

Note. — The rate of wages given here is at least one-third below 
those which, I was informed by proprietors, were paid at Mulhouse 
and Rouen. They had probably risen meanwhile. 



14 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 



Summary of the value of the general production of cotton tissues. 



Cotton tissues. 


No. of estab- 
lishments. 


Value of raw ma- 
terial, (cotton 
yarn. ) 


Value of pro- 
ductions. 




1,484 

46 

195 


$18,385,082 
1,004,400 
0,942,450 


$30,448,200 




2.697,000 




10,387,914 








1.725 
11 


26,321,932 
288,114 


43,533,114 
395,623 


Total 


1,736 


20,610,046 


43,928,737 






Accessories to unmixed tissues 


2S7 
17 


10,977,714 
807,612 


15,427,148 
1,755,282 






Total 


304 


11,785,326 


17,182,430 








2,040 
566 


38,395,372 


61,111,167 












2,606 





Number of workmen and machines. 



Cotton tissues. 



Cotton , pure 

Cotton, open work -. 

Cotton, mixed 

Total 

Subordinate and accessary articles 

Total 

Add for spinneries - — 

Making altogether 



Hands. 



145 


474 


17 


377 


25 


716 


188 


567 


23 


299 



211,866 
63,064 



274.930 



Looms. 



92,623 

1,687 

16,693 



111,003 
2,370 

113,373 
16,301 



129,673 



Note. — "The figures (says M. de Jonnes) were obtained by official 
inquiries at each establishment, being the only ones yet collected on 
this important subject. Two thousand and forty establishments (con- 
tinues the author) consume raw material valued at $38,395,372 ; their 
operations, by the aid of 212,000 workmen and 113,000 machines, 
increase this Value to $61,111,167, or by one-half; and it must not 
be forgotten that the raw material of the tissues, produced by this 
admirable and suprising industry, is cotton yarn, to work which costs 
twice as much as does cotton wool." 

If, to find the total value obtained by the labor of our 2,000 estab- 
lishments, raw cotton were taken as the basis of the calculation, the 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 15 

increased value would befound much more considerable. The quantity 
of 138,226,000 pounds, destined for spinning mills, is worth only 
$17,519,756, from which are fabricated tissues worth $62,012,400 — 
an increase in value equal to 350 per cent. 

Cotton is used in France mixed with wool, flax, or silk, in greater 
or less proportions. It enters into the fabrication of velvets, silk cra- 
vats, or vestings, rich moire-antique stuffs, satinets, broadcloths, and 
linens ; and it would seem that the progress of art and the necessity 
for new materials are destined to add still further to its already mul- 
tifarious uses. Want of time for that object rendered it impracticable 
for me to examine particularly into this branch of cotton consumption, 
either in France or any other country which I visited. It is well worth 
an extended and careful examination. 

According to M. de Jonnes, 212 establishments, employing 26,000 
hands, and with the latest and best descriptions of machinery, are 
engaged in the fabrication of articles of which cotton, mixed with 
silk, wool, or flax, is a component part. The mills are one-tenth the 
number of those devoted to weaving pure cotton, and the number of 
hands is one-ninth of those so engaged. 

The work of M. de Jonnes gives the following summaries of the 
different branches of cotton manufacture in France, after the raw ma- 
terial has been converted into yarn or threads. 

1 ° . — TISSUES OF PURE COTTON. 

Number of establishments 1,484 

Value of the spun cotton used in them.... $18, 384, 806 

Value of the tissues fabricated $30,448,200 

Total number of hands employed 145,474 

Viz: Men ...69,410 

Women 52,932 

Children , 23,125 

Men, wages, lfr. 50 centimes, or 28 

cents, = $3,868,800 

Women, 85 centimes, or 15 cents, = $2,247,922 

Children, 50 centimes, or 9 cents, = 645,048 

Looms, 92,623 ; other machines 2,820 

Spindles 190,336 

Value of articles fabricated $30,448,200 

Value of cotton yarn and thread $18,384,896 — 60 per cent. 

Profits, wages, and general expenses $12,090,000 = 40 per cent. 

Viz: Wages $6,755,148 = 22 per cent. 

Profits and general expenses $5,327,412 = 18 per cent. 



16 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE 

2c?. Transparent and other tissues. 



No. of establishments. 


Val. raw materials. 


Val. products. 


No. of hands. 


Tulles 19 


$930,000 
8,556 


$2,087,292 
111,600 


10,777 




60 




938,556 

1,012 

63,984 


2,198.892 

3,739 

502,200 


10,837 
400 




6,140 


Total 46 


1,003,552 


2,704,821 


17,377 



3d. Accessories to the fabrication of tissues. 






$4,110,600 
5,712,060 
1,469,400 


$5,601,390 
8,616,054 
2,306,400 


3,859 
10,081 

3,888 


Total 287 


11,292,060 


16,523,844 


17,828 



4:t h. Subordinate articles. 



Cords and twist 4 

Fringes and suspenders 4 


$2,790 

74,400 

51,336 

163.680 


$6,510 
111 600 

74.467 
204,972 


18 
180 
135 
250 




292,206 


397,549 


583 



5th. Mixed cotton tissues. 



Cotton and wool velvets and 

carpetings 42 

Cotton and wool network, 
blankets and furniture 

covers 16 

Cotton, W"ol and flax 5 

Cotton and silk 62 

Cotton, silk, and goats' wool 25 

Cotton, wool, and silk 45 



Total 195 



$3,496,800 



1,302,000 
156,498 
669,300 
163,202 

1,171,800 



6,959,600 



$4,964,800 



1,805,198 
279,000 
967, 200 
316,200 

1,957,258 



10,289,656 



Accessories to the same. 



Cotton and wool spinning and 


$799,800 
11,346 


$1,729,800 
31,248 


4,748 




140 




811,146 


1,761,048 


4,888 


General total 212 


7,770,746 11.050.704 


30, 604 











Looms 16, 693 

Other machines 7,802 

Spindles 71,802 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



17 



The pure cotton tissues of French fabrication are : Calicoes, Indien- 
nes, percales, ginghams, madopolain, jaconet, organdie and figured 
muslins, printed muslins, handkerchiefs and shawls, tulles, bobinets, 
laces, bonnetine, (caps, undershirts, drawers, gloves, &c.,) and fringes 
and nankins. 

DUTIES. 

The French government levies discriminating duties on cotton wool, 
taking into consideration not only the place of growth, but the mode 
of transport. A reference to the accompanying table, marked B, will 
show the amount of the duties levied on each description of cotton 
wool. The table marked A, and which is official, shows the amount 
of cotton wool imported into France from all countries during the 
periods therein named. It will be seen that the amount of duties 
paid for the year 1856 was $3,712,286, (19,851,000 francs,) upon a total 
receipt of 183,488,200 pounds. As to the quantity of cotton of the 
growth of the United States imported in that year, it will be seen that 
it paid more than 90 per cent, of the entire revenue from that source. 

The Tableau General du Commerce ale la France for 1856 places 
the amount of duties received from cotton imported from the United 
States at 18,777,229 francs, and the proportion to the whole 
amount of duties levied on importations from that country, at 
90.5 per cent. This document also places the total importation of 
American cotton wool for that year at 974,793 metrical quintals, 
(221 pounds,) equal to 215,469,033 pounds; of which, 786,994 me- 
trical quintals, or 173,926,744 pounds, were for consumption, and the 
balance of 41,543,259 pounds in transit. 

The following table, showing the quantity of cotton wool imported 
into France for the first nine months of the year 1857, with the 
amount of duty received therefrom, and a comparison with the quan- 
tities imported and the duties received for the same periods in the 
years 1855 and 1856, is made up from an official publication in the 
Moniteur Universel, of October 19, 1857, the French weights and 
values being converted into corresponding American weights and 
values : 



Importations. 


1857. 


1856. 


1855. 


From the United States - 


Pounds. 
159,125,083 
21,509,448 


Pounds. 

175,613,672 


Pounds. 
154 4M 331 


From other countries 


]2, 238, 096 13,292,990 






Total pounds - __. 


180,634.521 


187.851.768 


167,752,521 








Taken for consumption ■ 


121,928,593 

2.976,000 

40,807,871 


140,180,963 

2,820,200 

36,691,726 


135,696,652 


Duties received . 


2,659,800 


Stock on hand September 30 .. ... 


22,322,768 







Ex. Doc. 35- 



18 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, 

Of which, in 1857 — Pounds. 

At Marseilles 2,794,103 

At Bordeaux 360,611 

At Nantes 462,879 

At Rouen .; 267,189 

At Havre 36,174,385 

At Dunkirk 181,662 

At other ports 565,981 



Total 40,807,871 



The accompanying tables, marked, respectively, C, D, and E, all 
of which are from an official source, will exhibit — 

1st. The quantities and values of the various descriptions of cotton 
stuffs, of French fabrication, exported during the years specified ; 

2d. The quantities of yarns and tissues, with their values, of French 
fabrication, exported during the years specified ; 

3d. A list of countries, and the value of cotton tissues, of French 
fabrication, exported to each during the yearss pecified. 

With regard to the commercial exchanges between France and the 
United States, it wiil be seen, by reference to the official statements 
in the Tableau General du Commerce for 1856, that France took 
from us merchandise equal, in its real value, to $50,945,400, of 
which she consumed to the amount of $41,440,800 ; while we im- 
ported from her merchandise of the real value of $95,508,000, of 
which $60,189,600 were articles of French growth or fabrication. 
Among them were silk tissues and other stuffs, to the value of 
$27,844,200 ; tissues, embroideries, and ribbons of wool, to the value 
of $5,811,756 ; tissues, embroideries, and ribbons of "cotton, to the 
value of $874,200 ; wines, to the value of $6,106,000 ; brandies and 
spirits, to the value of $2,269,200 ; pottery, glass and crystal ware, 
to the value of $1,029,324 ; dressed skins, to the value of $2,213,400, 
&c , &c. 

The above details will show that the condition of cotton manufacture 
in France is highly prosperous and remunerative, and there is no reason 
why the consumption of cotton wool should not go on increasing. The 
comparative dearness of fuel for manufacturing purposes is more than 
counterbalanced by the abundance and cheapness of labor and the 
monopoly of the home market, with a demand for cotton tissues and 
stuffs for clothing or luxury, which is daily augmenting. Neverthe- 
less, the cotton manufacturing interest is at present in a nervous and 
excited state, owing to the exertions of the advocates of greater free- 
dom of trade, and the abolition or radical modification of the pro- 
hibitory system. 

While all the arguments of the friends of the existing policy are 
earnest, and often even impassioned, some of them are rather amusing. 
Rouen may be regarded as the very centre of the influence of the pro- 
hibitory policy, and it was there that I met with a small pamphlet, 
entitled Le Libre Echange et le Droit d' Ainesse en Engleterre, par un 
Bouennais, (free trade and the law of primogeniture in England, by a 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 19 

resident of Rouen,) in which the writer attributes England's great 
manufacturing prosperity mainly to the cheapness of coal and the law 
of primogeniture ; warning his countrymen of the political and social 
evils which will inevitably follow, should France open her ports, in 
imitation of her neighbor, to foreign cotton manufactures. 

That a modification — the greater the better — of our commercial 
treaty with France, would be followed by an increased consumption of 
our cotton wool and other products, and would tend to the increased 
prosperity of both countries, does not admit of reasonable doubt. 

At Rouen, particularly, the high price of American cotton was com- 
plained of by the mill owners, and, as a consequence of it, I was told 
that, on an estimated consumption of 140,000 bales, in the circle, for 
the year 1857, at least 15,000 would be of East Indian growth. Some 
of the spinners there had begun to spin East Indian cotton, unmixed 
with the longer and better stapled American, as has heretofore been 
the case in France and elsewhere in Europe ; the proportions being 
one-third or one-fourth East Indian to two-thirds or three-fourths 
American. In the circle of Mulhouse, at least five-sixths of the raw 
cotton consumed, is of American growth. 



20 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



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21 



B. 

Tariff of duties levied on cotton ivool imported into France. Kilogrammes 
converted into pounds, and francs and centimes into dollars and cents. 



Cotton wool. 



By French vessels, 
per 221 pounds. 



By foreign vessels, 
or by land. 



From French colonies 

Turkey 

India 

Elsewhere, out of Europe . 

Entrepots 

By land 

Unginned cotton from — 

French colonies 

Turkey 

India 

Elsewhere, out of Europe. 

Entrepots 

By land 

Wadding 



Free. 



$2 79 
1 86 

3 72 

4 65 



2 

71 

48 
95 
18 



18 60 



Free 



$4 65 



4 65 



1 30 



1 30 

20 00 



Note. — In converting francs and centimes into dollars and cents, in the above table, it 
was found necessary, in some instances, to add to or throw off small fractions, in order to 
make a full number. 



22 



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SWITZERLAND. 

Entirely surrounded by other nations, with political institutions of 
an exceptional character on the continent of Europe, and forced to 
depend on the comity or caprice of her neighbors with maritime fron- 
tiers for her supplies of the raw material, Switzerland yet occupies so 
important a place in the cotton manufacture of the day, and combines 
so many advantages as to the abundance of capital and labor, as to 
rank next after Great Britain and the United States in the cheapness 
of her productions in that branch of industry. 

With her increased cost of raw material and motive power, may be 
said to be compensated by low wages and greater artistic skill in the 
handling of the various fabrics which are sent out from her mills. In 
the year 1850 her entire population was 2,392.740, and in 1852 the 
cotton wool imported for consumption was 245,422 quintals, of 50 
kilogrammes, or 110 pounds each, making 26,996,420 pounds, or 
11,028 pounds to the inhabitant ; while her export of cotton yarn, 
twist and fabrics of various kinds summed up to 150,758 quintals, or 
15,088,590 pounds, being an average of 6,028 pounds to the inhab- 
itant ; leaving an average consumption of more than five pounds to 
the inhabitant. 

Previous to the period of my visit to Switzerland, the only published 
history of the origin, progress and condition of the cotton manufacture 
of the countr) was that of Doctor, now Sir John Bowring, who visited 
Switzerland as the commissioner of the British Board of Trade, and 
whose "Report on the Commerce and Manufactures of Switzerland," 
addressed to that body, is to be found in volume 45 of the parliament- 
ary papers, session of 1836. 

In July last "The Trade Statistics of Switzerland," by M. Emile 
Weber, was published at Zurich, and being more than twenty years 
later in date than the report of Sir John Bowring, may well be sup- 
posed to contain more accurate information as to the actual condition 
of manufactures in the country. The courtesy of a correspondent of 
Berne enables me to refer, in a subsequent portion of this report, to 
M. Weber's account of the number of cotton mills in Switzerland. 

Like all who visit the Swiss confederation, Sir John Bowring was 
most favorably impressed with those evidences of industry, comfort, 
and well-being which everywhere meet the eye of the stranger ; and 
he pays, on more than one occasion, an eloquent tribute to the thrift, 
skill, intelligence, and hospitality of the people. Patient industry, 
regulated economy, immense capital, and a generous hospitality , would 
seem to be hereditary with these bold and independent mountaineers, 
whose hands are as cunning in the workshop as they are unflinching 
in the field of battle. 

According to Mr. J. G. Zellwegger, of St. Gall, in a communication 
addressed to Sir John Bowring at the time of his visit, cotton manu- 
factures were known at Zurich as early as 1419, and he cites a law of 
the canton of Lucerne, enacted in 1423, ordering that cotton should 
thenceforth be sold by weight. It may be that this was the origin of the 
custom, still so generally prevalent in continental Europe, of giving in 



26 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

trade returns, or tables of imports and exports, the quantities of cotton 
and other tissues imported or exported into any country, by weight in- 
stead of measure, in ells, yards, &c. The markets for the goods fab- 
ricated in the fifteenth century were France, Italy, and Germany. 
The fabrication of cotton cambrics (bazins) was commenced in Appen- 
zell, about the year 1746, the period, it will be remembered, of the 
establishment at Mulhouse, then a portion of the Swiss territory, of 
manufactures of Indiennes. This, said Mr. Zellwegger, was a fortu- 
nate thing for the canton, as the war which broke out in the East 
Indies ten years afterwards, between England and France, brought 
manufactures of cottons and muslins into great demand, and several 
new establishments for bleaching and dyeing, with dressing machines 
and machinery for printing calicoes, were put into operation. 

Cotton spinning, by hand, of course, also began about the same 
period, " the spinner being able to earn three florins ($1 20) a week, 
and a weaver double that amount, while a measure of wheat of twenty- 
five pounds (twenty ounces each) did not cost more than forty kreutz- 
ers, or two-thirds of a florin." " It was about this period," continued 
Mr. Zellwegger, "that the firm of G-ruzebach introduced the art of 
embroidering, which commenced by embroidering the wrists of men's 
shirts." A visit to St. Gall, last July, brought me the acquaintance 
of Mr. Zellwegger, of the very respectable house of Holderegger & 
Zellwegger, to whose obliging attentions and great intelligence I be- 
came greatly indebted, and was enabled to see many of those beautiful 
embroideries and figured muslins for which that city has become re- 
nowned, and which are the work of the peasantry in the neighboring 
mountains of Appenzell. The days of embroidered frills and powdered 
perukes had long since passed away, but of exquisite collars and 
sleeves to deck, though not conceal, the necks and arms of the belles of 
the present day, there was an almost endless variety. 

The conclusion of the treaty of 1783, between England and France, 
brought with it a great reduction in the price, but not in the demand 
for Swiss manufactures, and a machine for making twist thread for 
embroideries was introduced, being the " first machine established in 
the canton." Attempts were also made to manufacture water twist 
and mule twist, as in England, and a native mechanic invented a 
machine to spin cotton, "which," observes Mr. Zellwegger, "was 
much inferior to the British machines." 

The following paragraph will show how the Swiss manufacturers 
looked at opposition and its probable consequences at that period : 

" Cotton manufactures were now established in France, and our 
workmen were bribed away in order to conduct them. This occasioned 
several prohibitory proclamations on the part of our magistrates, 
which were attended with as little effect as were the silly lamentations 
which, in every direction, predicted the utter ruin of our industry by 
the progress of manufactures in France. The French, on the other 
hand, raised a similar cry, should our goods be permitted to be placed 
in competition with the manufactures of that country. But all these 
fears and prognostications were without foundation ; our manufactures 
continued to increase." 

And so, might he have added, did those of France and every other 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 27 

country engaged in the like industry. An increase which, vast as it 
has already proved, is, in all probability, destined to a further expansion, 
the limits of which few, at all acquainted with its history, will venture 
to prescribe. 

The French government, carrying out that policy of prohibition 
which appears to have reigned in its councils since the days of Colbert, 
at this period prohibited the introduction of Swiss cotton goods, which 
was followed by a fall in their prices of from 40 to 50 per cent., a 
shock hard to bear, but not so disastrous as it might have otherwise 
proved, as it was followed by a system of smuggling on an extensive 
scale. In the year 1797, English machine-spun cottons first made their 
appearance in the Swiss markets ; but the demand for them was checked 
by the general belief that they were inferior in strength and durability 
to yarns spun by hand. The spinners, meanwhile, took the occasion to 
improve themselves in weaving and embroidery, and their general 
prosperity continued until the French invasion in 1798, and the occu- 
pation of the country by the victorious troops of the new republic, 
subsequent to which an almost complete stagnation was visible. 

For some years Switzerland continued to constitute a part of the 
French republic, or the empire which succeeded it, and shared its 
fortunes in commerce and manufactures ; the latter of which, particu- 
larly after the treaty of Amiens, suffered no little from the increased 
facilities for cheap productions afforded in England by new inventions 
in various branches of the art. The spinners of St. Gall, however, 
showed no antipathy to these new systems of labor, but availed them- 
selves readily of whatever advantages they possessed ; and in 1800, 
the year of its introduction, as has already been said, through Ghent 
into France, the English spinning machine was introduced into St. 
Gall, followed, in 1801, by power-looms, machines for dressing cloth, 
and a chemical process for bleaching. 

The wars of the French empire, and the changes brought about by 
the events which accompanied them, together with the c mmercial 
policy proclaimed subsequent to the overthrow of that empire by most 
of the leading continental powers, had a marked and, in many re- 
spects, a very ruinous effect on the fortunes of the Swiss cotton manufac- 
turers; and, deprived of their accustomed markets, they began to turn 
their eyes towards the United States, and even remoter markets ; the 
result has been an ample reward for their enterprise and skill. 

At the time of Sir John Bo wring's visit, in 1835, the canton of 
Zurich had not taken the position of superiority in Swiss cotton manu- 
facture which it now unquestionably holds, as it possesses 503,369 of 
the 1,112,303 spindles, and 2,595 of the 7,779 looms to be found in the 
country. As is said above, cotton manuiactures had their origin there 
earty in the fifteenth century, and exhibited a gradual increase until 
the beginning of the present century, when, in 1802, an Englishman 
introduced, though with defective machinery, the spinning of water 
and mule twist ; but it was not until five years afterwards that ma- 
chinery sufficiently perfect to insure prosperity to that branch was 
introduced. 

The consumption of cotton wool in 1835 was about 3,360,000 pounds, 
which was spun into yarns varying in numbers from 20 to 40, although 
a mill at Winterthur sent out No. 120. The number of persons then 



28 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



employed in that canton, in spinning, was about 5,000 ; the average 
wages being, for men 3|, the women 2, and the children 1^ florins 
per week. [The florin was equal to 60 kreutzers, or 40 cents of our 
currency. It is not now used, having given place to francs and 
centimes, of the same value as those of France and Belgium] 

At the same period there were about 12,000 weavers and 4,000 other 
persons engaged in cotton manufactures ; 800,000 pieces of cloth were 
manufactured yearly, with nineteen printing establishments, employ- 
ing 1,000 persons, and producing yearly about 100,000 pieces of calico. 
The canton had then 225,000 inhabitants, and in 1850 they had in- 
creased to 250,698. 

The canton of Aargau, or Argovia, as it is also called, occcupied, in 
1835, the next rank to Zurich in cotton spinning and weaving ; at 
this day it has the same number of mills for spinning as St. Gall, 
though the number of spindles exceeds that of the latter canton. 
Aargau produces, principally, the lowest numbers of yarns and the 
coarser styles of tissues. In 1835 the weaving was altogether done 
by hand, and in the dwellings of the weavers. It theu imported raw 
cotton from the English, French, and Dutch markets, and also via 
Trieste, and received from England cotton twist, chiefly of the higher 
numbers, cloths for printing, and various other tissues of that mate- 
rial. According to the report so often quoted above, the wages were 
from 7 to 10 batzen (10^d. to Is. 3c?.) per day, for spinners and those 
employed in the printing establishments. Youths, between 14 and 
18 years, got from 3 to 5 batzen per day. 

According to Mr. Weber's " Trade Statistics of Switzerland, Zurich, 
1857," the number of cotton spinning mills in Switzerland is now 132, 
and the number of weaving mills 48, distributed and furnished as follows: 



Cantons. 



Argovia , 

Basle 

Berne 

St. Gall 

Glarus 

Schaffhausen 

Schwiz 

Thurgan 

Zurich 

Zug 

Total . 



Mills. 



132 



Spindles. 



162,400 

8,000 

14,600 

115,894 

139,140 
10,300 
59,500 
23,100 

503,693 
76,000 



1,112,303 



Weaving 
Mills. 



10 



1 

4 

10 

1 
2 

4 
14 

2 



48 



Looms. 



1,320 



150 
480 

1,890 
150 
440 
454 

2,595 
300 



7,779 



At St. Gall I was furnished, through the courtesy of M. Bergermann, 
the leading dealer in yarns and twist, with a table, carefully prepared 
by his deceased partner, in the year 1853, of all the spinning and 
weaving mills then known in Switzerland, with the places of location, 
number of spindles or looms, and names of proprietors. 

At that period the number of spinners was 138, with 907,799 spin- 
dles, and of weaving mills 31, with 3,727 looms, of which only six 
were distinct from spinneries. M. Bergermann estimated the increase 
in spindles, for the tour years elapsed since the table was compiled, at 
10 per cent.; and the statement furnished by M. Weber shows that he 
was within the mark. The apparent dimunition in the number of 



CONSUMPTION OP COTTON IN EUROPE. 29 

mills, during the same period, can scarcely be real, as the business 
has unquestionably been prosperous and yielding fair profits on the 
capital invested. 

The two most extensive cotton spinneries in Switzerland at the 
present day are Messrs. Henri Kunz and Henri Schmid, both of whom 
reside in the canton of Zurich. I had the pleasure and advantage of 
an interview with the first named, at his residence, in the town of 
Uster, some fifteen miles from the city of Zurich, and he gave me some 
interesting details as to the manufacture. 

The annual consumption in the different mills belonging to Mr. 
Kunz is between 6,000 and 7,000 bales of raw cotton ; having, as he 
said, diminished somewhat under the great rise in prices. Of late, 
owing to an increasing demand for the finer numbers of cotton yarns, 
he has been using American and Egyptian cotton, in about equal 
quantities, and finds that the latter, though costing more, yields a 
greater profit for those descriptions of yarns. Of sea-islands he con- 
sumed but a very small quantity, and that only for the very finest 
numbers of yarns. But few mills (only three or four) in the country 
use it. Egyptian cotton of good middling quality or above, delivered 
at Uster, costs from 130 to 150 francs ($24 18 to $27 90) the 100 Swiss 
pounds ; while American, of similar grades, costs from 10 francs 
($1 86) to 15 francs ($2 79) less for the same weight. The Swiss 
pound is 10 per cent, heavier than the English. Egyptian bales 
weigh from 350 to 500 Swiss pounds. On American cotton wool the 
waste is, he says, about 12 to 15 per cent.; on Egyptian, which is not 
so clean, it is fully one per cent. more. Surat cotton is only used when 
American and Egyptian reach very high prices, while Brazilian is 
scarcely known. 

The duties levied on the raw material are but insignificant, and are 
less than the road and bridge tolls used to be when each canton had 
its own custom-houses ; and consumption is not affected by them in 
the least. Mr. Kunz purchases the bulk of his raw material at Liv- 
erpool, as he gives limited orders, and wishes to keep them as far as 
practicable under his control, which he could not do in the remoter 
American markets. When he does buy at American ports, his agents 
are supplied with credits on London, Paris, or Basle, as may be most 
advisable at the period of purchase. The freight charges vary, so far 
as ship carriage is concerned, considerably, according to the facility 
of procuring vessels. 

When cotton is purchased at Liverpool it is transported in vessels 
to Mannheim, and there transferred to the railroads ; the charges per 
100 kilogrammes (220 pounds) to Zurich being from 6 francs 40 cen- 
times to 6 francs 75 centimes. 

The freight from Botterdam, via Mannheim, is 4 f. 5 cent, to 4 f. 
80 cent, the 100 kilos. From Havre the same weight will cost, by 
rail, 6 f. 40 cent, to 6 f: 50 cent. From Marseilles it will cost, if by 
rail, 6 f. 15 cent, to 6 f. 35 cent. ; and if partially by water, 35 to 60 
centimes less. In all these cases the duty of 30 centimes per 100 kilos, 
is not included. 

M. Henri Schmid very courteousty replied to the various questions 
asked of him. His annual consumption of raw material is about 6,000 



30 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, 

quintals (110 pounds,) or 660,000 pounds, of which only one-sixth is of 
Egyptian growth, which is imported by way of Trieste. The remain- 
der is of American, Georgia, and Louisiana, and comes by way of 
Havre or Marseilles. He estimates the cost of transportation to the 
factoiy as being equal to 30 per cent, on the purchase price ; there be- 
ing but little difference between the various ports in this respect, with 
the exception of Havre, through which the charges do not exceed 20 
per cent. 

Mr. Schmid has several spinning or weaving mills, giving employ- 
ment to some 800 hands, whose average wages are 1 franc 40 centimes 
per diem, and the yearly value of their products bring 1,000,000 
francs, or $186,000. Of the yarns spun, the far greater portion is 
woven on the spot, Some go to eastern Switzerland, and a small 
quantity to the German markets. The numbers spun range from 20 
to 200 of the English system. Of tissues, the chief production is of 
calicoes (yarns, 40 to 50) and jaconet muslins. The annual production 
is 1,600,000 ells, of the value of 500,000 francs, or $93,000, for all of 
which there is a good home market. When he buys in the United States 
his agents have credits on London or Paris, at sixty days' sight, sub- 
ject to prevailing rates of exchange on the last named city, which 
generally range from 5 francs 15 centimes to 5 francs 30 centimes the 
dollar. Purchases at Alexandria are paid for in a similar manner, 
though the rates of exchange vary in that case between 5 francs and 
5 francs 15 centimes the dollar. Mr. Schmid estimates the average 
waste on American cotton, according to grade, at from 10 to 20 per 
cent. It is, as a general rule, less than that in other varieties of the 
same classification, though it may be sometimes more. The waste of 
American is in greater demand than that of Egyptian or Indian cot- 
ton. He agrees with all other spinners from whom I have had any 
information, that the duty on the raw material is too small to affect 
consumption. 

At Zurich a leading merchant and cotton buyer informed me that 
at least nine-tenths of the consumption of cotton wool in Switzerland 
was of the growth of the United States ; there being but a small pro- 
portion of Egyptian, and still less of Brazilian or East Indian, called 
for. The Swiss manufacturers, with whom capital is generally abun- 
dant, have availed themselves of all the latest inventions and improve- 
ments in machinery, both for spinning and weaving; and their estab- 
lishments are, for the most part, models as to neatness, order and skill. 

The little town of Watwyl, built high up among the spurs of the 
Alps, is the scene of an active and prosperous industry. I had the 
pleasure of making the acquaintance of the two leading firms of 
Abram Raschle and J. Rod Raschle & Co., to each of whom I am in- 
debted for courteous reception and readily furnished information as to 
the condition of the cotton manufacture at Watwyl. 

Mr. Abram Raschel carries on the three branches of spinning, weaving 
and dyeing. Three-fourths of the raw cotton consumed in his mills is 
of the growth of the United States, and of ordinary grades ; the other 
fourth is of Egyptian growth. His markets are the United States, 
(which is the chief,) the Levant, the East Indies — the places to which 
his fabrics go being Singapore, Manila, Calcutta, and Bombay, and 
Italy, which takes about one-third of his manufactures. 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 31 

The waste varies in spinning from 6 per cent, to 10 per cent. The 
numbers of yarns spun range from 40 to 60. Unbleached, these yarns 
are worth 3 francs, or 56 cents, for 40's ; and 4 francs, or 74 cents, 
per pound for 60 's. His looms are all worked by hand, and the num- 
ber of hands employed by him ranges from 600 to 800. In 1856 the 
value of the products of his mills was 1,000,000 francs, or $186,000, 
the whole of which went to foreign markets. 

The establishment of Messrs. J. Eod Raschle & Co. are more ex- 
tensive than those of Mr. Abram Raschle. They use but very little 
Egyptian or Surat cottons ; the great bulk being of the growth of the 
United States, and of the variety which they term Louisiana. 

The tissues principally produced at Watwyl are ginghams, checks, 
madras handkerchiefs, printanieres, and striped goods. The print- 
anieres for Turkey and the Levant are of fine styles, as are many of 
the ginghams. For the East Indies the styles are cheap and heavy. 
Gaily colored shawls and handkerchiefs, with Turkey red grounds and 
light figures, are also manufactured to a considerable extent. The 
calicoes and other stuffs demanded by the home market are for the 
most part woven in the houses of the different families, scarcely one of 
which is without a loom and weaver. These two firms have their 
agents at New York, and other cities, and their invoices are made up 
on orders transmitted through them. 

The small though very wealthy city of St. Gall, the highest town 
of any importance in Europe, above the level of the sea, is the centre 
of the manufactures of fine muslins and embroideries. To the firm of 
Holderegger & Zellwegger, who carry on a large business in those 
articles, I was indebted for the kindest reception and the most civil 
attentions during my stay in the town. There is but little manu- 
facturing carried on in St. Gall itself, the business being mostly in 
the hands of small and enterprising capitalists, who enter into con- 
tracts with the merchants for furnishing within a given delay such 
quantities of embroideries or figured muslins as they may desire, and 
then have the work executed by the inhabitants of the district or 
canton in which they live, and which may be many miles away ; or 
in some instances, where these middlemen are well known for probity 
and punctuality, they are entrusted by the merchants with a given 
quantity of thread or bobinet, laces or tulles, to be converted into 
muslins or embroideries within a certain delay, to be paid for at an 
agreed rate, after deducting the value of the materials so furnished. 

Two leagues from St. Gall, and still higher above the sea, is the 
beautiful and very cleanly little town of Herisan, in the canton of 
Appenzell, which is also remarkable for its figured muslins and 
various articles of embroidered work, as well as for other tissues of 
cotton of greater or less fineness, according to the demand. Through 
the kindness of Mr. J. J. Neff, t had here the opportunity of witness- 
ing the operation of weaving the finer and more costly styles of figured 
muslins. The looms used were, as I was informed, the invention of 
Mr. Neff. They are placed in well lighted cellars, in order to preserve 
the moisture and pliability of the threads used, which is the general 
mode of the entire district. The yarns used for these styles of muslins 
are from numbers 60 to 150 and 180. The weavers get from 8 francs 
to 10 francs the piece of 8 ells. 



32 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

At St. Gall and Herisan may be seen some of the finest and costliest 
figured or other muslins and embroideries for dress and curtains, 
which enjoy a superiority in all the markets of the civilized world, 
only disputed to a limited extent by the productions of Tarare, for 
which the French claim a superiority in the taste of the designs. 
The chief markets for the finest articles of these description are Eng- 
land and the United States. The inferior goods go to the Levant, 
the East Indies, South America, &c. The bobinet for these em- 
broideries is imported from England, and comes from the famous 
looms of Nottingham. 

At St. Gall are also found several bleaching and dressing mills. 
That belonging to Mr. Messmer is extensive and well worth a visit ; 
the courteous proprietor taking every pains to point out and explain 
its various details. Here muslins, tulles, guipures, ginghams, printa- 
nieres, shawls and handkerchiefs are either bleached, dyed, printed, 
washed, sized or folded, pressed, marked and packed, ready for the 
various markets to which they are destined. Many of the processes are 
highly interesting, particularly those for the dyeing of muslins and em- 
broideries by steam, in order to preserve the pliability of the threads. 

The wages paid in these establishments range from eighty centimes 
to one franc fifty centimes per day for women, and two francs to three 
francs per day for men. 

The working day is fourteen hours, and in the winter it is not un- 
common for the hands to work from 5 o'clock a. m. to midnight, with 
customary intermissions for meals. In this portion, at least, of 
Switzerland, children begin to work in the factories at the age of ten, 
and, in some instances, even six years. It is obligatory on the em- 
ployer to permit them to attend school, at fixed hours, daily, until 
they reach twelve years, and once or twice a week afterwards, until 
they are fourteen. 

Their wages are very small, not exceeding fifteen centimes — some- 
thing under five cents — per day, when they first enter the mill, and 
for some time afterwards. 

The stuffs printed at St. Gall are of both Swiss and English fabri- 
cation, no little of "gray cloth" being imported from the latter to 
be converted into colored goods. For the markets of Constantinople 
and the Levant, great quantities of gaily colored articles, such as 
shawls and handkerchiefs, mostly on Turkey red grounds, are preferred. 
For Wallachia and the other markets on the lower Danube, graver 
tints are preferred ; which is also the case with the goods sent to Spain 
and Italy. 

All these tissues are of the lower qualities of cotton, the yarns used 
being Nos. 40 to 80, for warp, and 60 to 100, for woof; they are also, 
for the most part, rather flimsy in texture. For robes, the muslins 
are of much finer quality, those of English fabrication being composed 
of yarns ranging from Nos. 80 to 140. 

All descriptions of embroidery, in St. Gall and Appenzell, are done 
by hand, with the exception of some narrow insertions, for which 
machinery is employed. 

For purposes of revenue from importations, Switzerland is divided 
into six arrondissements, or districts. The first consists of the cantons 
of Berne, Soleure, Basle (town and county), and Aargau ; the second, 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 33 

of the cantons of Zurich, Schaffhausen and Thurgovia ; the third, of 
the cantons of St. Grail and the Grisons ; the fourth, of the cantons 
of Tessino ; the fifth of the cantons of Vaud and Neufchatcl ; and the 
sixth, of the cantons of Valais and Geneva. 

The importations of cotton-wool into the country by way of the 
north, the northwest, and northeast, may he assumed to be almost 
exclusively of American growth. Those by the east and south are, on 
the contrary, almost exclusively of Egyptian growth ; while those of 
the southwest are also Egyptian, with perhaps a small portion of 
American, shipped from New Orleans to Marseilles. 

The table herewith presented, which is official, will show the annual 
import of cotton-wool, yarns, and tissues, and duties paid thereon, 
together with the exports of the same, for the five years from 1852 to 
1856, inclusive It will be seen that the amount of cotton-wool im- 
ported in 1852 was 27,396,420 pounds, and in 1856, 28,324,860 pounds. 
While the cotton-wool exported in 1852 was 1,464,650 pounds, and 
in 1856, 1,773,200 pounds, with an annual average of 1,549,430 
pounds. 

The quantity of yarns and threads imported during the same period 
averaged 364,540 pounds ; that exported, 1,671,560 pounds. The 
quantity of cotton tissues imported averaged 3,529,020 pounds, while 
the exports of the same averaged 15,788,960 pounds. 

As for the future prospects of cotton manufacture in Switzerland, it 
may be said that though it is an inland country, without seaports or 
coal beds, and therefore obliged to pay an increased price for the raw 
material, as well as for the necessary fuel to convert it into yarns or 
tissues, there is, nevertheless, to be found abundance of capital and 
cheap labor, whereby those disadvantages are overcome to a consider- 
able degree. The general diffusion of skill in handwork, aided by 
the system of popular education, the frugal habits of the people, and 
the winters of eight month's duration, compelling the inhabitants to 
remain within doors, all contribute to make up for the disadvantages 
under which it otherwise labors; the influence of new inventions in 
machinery, and methods of saving fuel, must also be felt there as 
they have been elsewhere ; while the more liberal modern systems 
which dispense raw materials and manufactures from it, in transitu, 
from the payment of duties to the countries through which they pass, 
place Switzerland more on a footing with maritime countries than 
might otherwise be the case. A still further increase in her impor- 
tation and manufacture of cotton- wool seems therefore altogether 
probable. 

I cannot conclude this portion of my report without expressing my 
obligations for kind assistance or valuable information from our excel- 
lent minister at Berne, the Hon. Theodore S. Fay; to Mr. A. H. 
Goundie, the consul at Zurich, and to Messrs. Frauschini and Frey, 
members of the federal' council of the Swiss confederation. M Fraus- 
chini, in particular, manifested the warmest desire to afford me all 
possible information. He was a gentleman of accomplished manners 
and varied information, and the proceedings of the general assembly 
on the occasion of his sudden death showed the high esteem in which 
he was held by his countrymen. 
Ex. Doc, 35 3 



34 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



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CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 35 



THE HANSS TOWNS. 

Although none of it is consumed in their territories, the two free 
cities of Bremen and Hamburg receive annually a large and rapidly- 
increasing amount of cotton-wool, which is distributed thence into the 
States composing the German Custom's Union, Switzerland, Austria, 
Russia and Sweden. In this, therefore, as well as in other commer- 
cial aspects, the present condition and future prospects of their trade 
becomes a question of high interest to American statesmen. 

It was my good fortune to meet in both those cities, in the persons 
of the officers and members of their respective chambers of commerce, 
gentlemen who honor their calling as merchants, and are distinguished 
for the extent and variety of their information concerning the com- 
merce of the world. Having a more extensive trade than Hamburg 
with our country, the city of Bremen, by the greater certainty of 
remunerative round voyages, offers perhaps greater facilities, as an 
importing point, to the consumers of the interior than the first 
named. Her merchants, too, have long appreciated the value of a 
direct trade with us, and have labored with persevering zeal and lib- 
erality to obtain their full share of its profits and advantages. 

The cheapness of transportation into her port of the raw material, 
enables Bremen to compete successfully in the supply of the spinning 
mills at Vienna, even with Trieste, which is much nearer, and which 
is now connected with the capital by an uninterrupted line of railroad. 
The principal cause of this is the great difficulty of obtaining return 
freights for the ships which take cargoes of cotton to Trieste, while at 
Bremen, either cargo or full complements of passengers to the United 
States are, in general, readily found. 

The liberal policy of the city with regard to port charges, and the 
facilities which it offers in the way of docks, and the abundance of 
labor for the cheap discharge and taking in of cargoes, have also had 
their effect upon the growth of its trade. 

The following communication from Mr. E. Klugkist, the president 
of the Bremen Chamber of Commerce, with its accompanying tables, 
exhibit clearly the movement of the trade of that port, in cotton- wool, 
yarn, tissues and other fabrics, for the period of five years, beginning 
with 1852 and ending with 1856. 

The importation of cotton-wool has swollen from 8,635,196 Bremen 
pounds, 100 of which are equal to 109.80 of our own, and a value of 
1,220,891 louis d'or thalers, equal to 78 | cents in the first named 
year, to 41.557,005 Bremen pounds, and the value of 6,898,559 louis 
d'or thalers in 1856. 

Your particuear attention is respectfully called to the answer of Mr. 
Klugkist to the 10th interrogatory ; as it embodies the views which 
his high commercial position and experience have enabled him to form, 
as to the causes which may operate, either to increase or diminish the 
direct trade between Bremen and the United States. 



36 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 



Bremen, September 2, 1857. 

Sir : I have the pleasure of handing to you, enclosed, the reply to 
the questions put by your favor of 18th July, which it is hoped will 
answer your purposes. 

You will also meet with some suggestions pointing to obstacles 
whose bearing, in the opinion of the chamber of commerce, is of vital 
influence on the commercial intercourse between the German ports and 
those of the United States, which is capable of much greater extension, 
if allowed to develop itself on its own merits. 

Any further information is at your service on this subject, and 
adding the assurance of high esteem, I have the honor to be — 
Your obedient servant, 

E. KLUGKIST. 

John Claiborne, Esq. 



Answers to questions put by Mr, Claiborne. 

Question 1. The quantity of cotton-wool annually imported into 
Bremen, the countries of its growth, and the ports whence it is so 
shipped to this port, is answered by annexed statement, p. 1. 

Question 2. The freight and charges paid on such cotton-wool, and 
its value on arrival ? 

Answer. The value is stated, also, on page 1. 

It is composed of the invoice amount at the ports of shipment, with 
shipping, charges, and commission, adding freight and insurance. 

The freight from the United States is subject to great fluctuations, 
from one fourth to two cents per hundred. It is, generally, fully as 
low, and lower to Bremen than to Liverpool, on account of the very 
low port charges here. From Bombay, the freight is about £4 per 
50 cubic feet. 

Question 3. How much, if any, of the said cotton-wool is consumed 
in Bremen, and how much distributed thence into other territory, 
specifying the different countries, the amount sent to each, and the 
duties and charges of every nature with which it is burdened in the 
transit? 

Answer. Consumption in Bremen is quite trifling. The countries 
which draw this supply from Bremen are specified on page 2 of state- 
ment. There is levied a transit duty of one-half cent per 100 lbs. 
in Bremen ; the other charges are only those which are combined with 
every business transaction — say weighing, transporting from ship to 
railroad, and the small commission for doing this business. 

Question 4. Are the duties or charges sufficiently high to lessen the 
consumption of cotton-wool, or cotton fabrics, in any one of the States 
or Territories so supplied ? if yea, specify such States or Territories, 
and the government or corporation by which the duties or charges are 
laid and collected. 

Answer. The duty on cotton fabrics is high both in the Zollverein 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 37 

and Austria, to which countries the bulk of the cotton imported in 
Bremen is exported, but on yarn low ; and as inland manufactures 
are sufficiently advanced, this duty does probably not lessen con- 
sumption. There is a transit duty on cotton passing the Zollverein, 
if to Austria, of 3| per cent, per 100 pounds ; other parts, 5 per cent, 
per 100 pounds — which proves very injurious, as by sending cotton to 
Switzerland by way of Antwerp or France, to Austria by way of 
Trieste, it can be avoided, thus giving the merchants in Liverpool 
and London an advantage over those in Bremen and Hamburg, 
strengthening the supremacy which Liverpool has already in the 
cotton trade. It would materially assist the German markets, in 
their efforts to make themselves independent, if this unnatural transit 
duty would be done away with. 

Question 5. The quantity of cotton yarn annually imported, the 
country or countries whence it is brought, its value per pound, accord- 
ing to numbers, and the place or places where sent from Bremen? 

Answer. Is answered by statement, page 3. The numbers of the 
yarns cannot be given. Exports of the same are found at page four. 

Question 6. The amount and value of cotton or mixed cotton tissues 
or fabrics annually imported, the countries whence it comes, the 
duties and charges paid on it, and its value in this market? 

Answer. Is answered by statement, page 5. There is no duty here 
whatever on the sale, and they can be imported by land from any port. 
There is not, therefore, a method of ascertaining the different kinds, 
as no entry is made. 

Question 7. The amount and value of cotton or mixed cotton tissues 
or fabrics annually exported, and the countries to which it goes? 

Answer. Is answered by statement, page 6. From the causes 
alluded to, question 6, this information cannot be more explicit. If 
exported again, a transit duty of half a cent per 100 pounds is also 
levied, as on raw cotton. 

Question 8. The course of exchange which attends the purchase of 
cotton-wool or fabrics for this market? 

Answer. Cotton purchases are generally made in the United States 
by drawing, against the amount, bills on Bremen. The exchange 
varies, and has during the last years been from 70 to 80 cents per 1 R. 

Question 9. What articles of production or manufacture does Bre- 
men receive from the various countries which she supplies with cotton 
wool, in exchange for such supplies ? 

Answer. Cotton consumers pay with produce or manufactures which 
are sent here for sale. There is a great inland trade going on, too 
manifold to be specified. 

Question 10. In case of the entire supply of American cotton-wool 
which is taken by Bremen, or the countries which here obtain their 
supplies, coming direct from America, what articles of domestic pro- 
duction or manufacture could be exchanged against such cotton- 
wool? 

Answer. So far, the United States has been the country which 
supplied the cotton, but owing to its increasing value, efforts are 
making to get supplies from the East Indies, and this year, about 20 
per cent, imports will be Surat cotton, which although selling 33^ 



38 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

per cent, lower, pays a profit. It is not as good, but manufacturer 
are compelled to resort to it, by the bigh rates of North American 
cotton. 

Our imports from the United States are paid for by some kinds of 
German produce and a good deal of manufactures, among which form 
a prominent part : 

Cloth, (woolen,) cotton goods, hosiery, silks, segars, toys, glass, 
looking-glass plates, willow baskets, musical instruments, pianos, 
zeni wool, manufactures of porcelain, negro pipes, bottles and demi- 
johns. 

Nearly all these articles pay a pretty high duty, which curtails 
their consumption in the United States, and diminishes the consum- 
ing power of the lower classes, who produce these articles with us. 

A reduction of the duty on such articles would materially increase 
the export trade to the United States, and the consumption of cotton, 
tobacco, rice, and other articles produced by the United States, in 
Germany. 

It must be remarked that the value is computed herein rix dollars, 
having a value of 78 to 80 cents each. 112 pounds American weight 
are equal to 102 pounds in Bremen. 



HAMBURG. 

With a much larger population and a proportionately greater capi- 
tal upon which to base her commerce than her sister city, Hamburg 
does not seem to have appreciated to the same extent as Bremen the 
value and importance of a direct trade with the United States. Her 
ships, like those of Great Britain and our own country, are found in 
every quarter of the globe, as her merchants of the present generation 
do not appear to have lost in any degree the spirit of enterprise and 
commercial adventure which has characterized their ancestors through 
many generations. That she should continue to receive indirectly the 
greater part of her imports of so important an article of consumption 
as cotton, is difficult of explanation with persons uninformed as to the 
nature of her financial combinations. 

The accompanying official statements, in which the weights are 
reduced to our standards, furnished through the courtesy of Dr. Soet- 
beer, the secretary of the chamber of commerce, will show that in the 
year 1855, the last for which any commercial statement had been pub- 
lished at the period of my visit, the importation of cotton from the 
United States was 6,114,320 pounds, while that via Great Britain was 
31,381,960 pounds, or more than five times as large. The fact that 
the far greater portion of this importation by way of Great Britain 
was of American growth, will enable you to see how vast must be the 
addition to the price of the bulk of the raw material to the German 
spinners and mill owners, by the existing system of trade, as they 
receive their supplies burdened, at the very least, with two sets of 
charges for freight and commissions to brokers, agents, and bankers, 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 39 

instead of but a single one. A leading banker and merchant of Ham- 
burg, in explanation of this state of things, said to me that it had 
grown up and continued to exist mainly on account of the absence in 
the United States markets of an extended system of credits, such as 
could be obtained in England ; and he also regarded the plan of short 
payments, enforced in oar markets, as being a very considerable ob- 
stacle to additional consumption in continental Europe, which, he 
argued, would increase far more rapidly could longer credits than 
three months (that being about the available limit under present cir- 
cumstances) be obtained by the purchaser, as could be done in the 
English markets, and but for which circumstance the amount of trade 
in cotton, so far as Hamburg was concerned, would soon change into 
a more direct channel. 

The value of direct trade with us is, however, much more appre- 
ciated by the Hamburgers at this time than has hitherto been the case, 
and with the example and immense commercial progress of Bremen, 
in that respect, before them, as an illustration of the great advan- 
tages likely to flow from it, if properly fostered, they are turning 
their eyes beyond the marts of London and Liverpool to those of New 
York and New Orleans, anxious to secure, if practicable, for them- 
selves the only profits on that portion of our products which is con- 
sumed in the interior States of Germany ; and at the same time to 
endeavor, by the establishment of a steady, cheap, and well supplied 
market, to command, to a greater degree than at present, the supply 
of our raw materials to northern Europe. 

The communication of Dr. Soetbeer will show that there are no 
duties levied on cotton imported into Hamburg ; the only contribu- 
tion of that nature being the toll exacted by the Hanoverian govern- 
ment upon the cargoes of all vessels passing the town of Stade ; a tax 
of which the merchants and shipmasters of the city complain with 
great show of reason, alleging that it is in clear violation of the treaty 
of Vienna, and so far also as American ships are concerned, of the 
terms of our existing treaty with that power. This course of policy 
on the part of Hanover is the more obnoxious, because the entire 
charge of providing for the safe and convenient navigation of the Elbe, 
and the keeping up of the lights, buoys, &c, falls upon Hamburg 
alone ; and from the fact also that the Hanoverian government levies 
no similar toll on the ships and property of its own subjects. 

It will be seen that the raw cotton imported into Hamburg is dis- 
tributed thence by water or railroad communication in Saxony, Bohe- 
mia, Austria, and of late years, since the railroads have afforded 
sufficient facilities for cheap transportation, into Bavaria and Switzer- 
land. It is through Hamburg, as I was informed, that Saxony, which 
may be considered as taking the lead among the G-erman States in the 
cotton manufacture, obtains the bulk of her supply of the raw material, 
and it is through thit port and Bremen that the various fabrics and 
tissues into which the article is converted in the interior find their 
way into the most remote markets of the world. 

It is believed that the cost of interior transportation will still 
further decline with the progress and development of the German 
sy stem of railroads, and improvements in river navigation on the Elbe 



40 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

and the Weser, and that there is every prospect of a steady and grow- 
ing demand for raw material for manufacturing purposes, from the 
interior, and particularly from quarters where, owing to the absence, 
until within a comparatively recent period, of the means of rapid and 
easy communication with the sea ports, manufacturing industrj^ was 
not so inviting to continental capital, nor capable of that progress and 
development which is thought to be now before it. 

As l)r. Soetbeer does not give the values of the cotton-wool, and 
yarn imported into and exported from Hamburg, the following state- 
ment, which also includes cotton manufactured goods, is compiled from 
the official statement of the trade of the city for the year 1855, pub- 
lished in 1856 ; that for the latter year not having been printed at 
the period of my visit. 

The imports, exports, and value of the same articles for the year 
1854 is also given. 

1855. — Value of cotton- wool imported $4,447,145 

" Value of yarn and twist imported.. 10,319,393 

" Value of manufactured goods imported 8,957,257 

Total 23,723,795 



1855.— Value of cotton-wool exported $4,858,088 

" Value of yarn and twist exported 11,627,162 

" Value of manufactured goods exported 8,682,594 

Total 25,157,844 



1854. — Value of cotton-wool imported $5,351,105 

" Value of yarn and twist imported 8,474,624 

" Value of manufactured goods imported.... 8,828,161 

Total 22,653,890 



1854.— Value of cotton-wool exported $3,724,553 

" Value of yarn and twist exported 8,059,065 

Value of manufactured goods exported ., 7,450,310 

Total 19,233,928 



Hamburg, August 24, 1857. 

Sir : In reply to your esteemed favor of the 24th of July, contain- 
ing several questions about our cotton trade, I respectfully beg leave 
to give the following explanations : 

1. I refer to the annexed tables. 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE. 41 

The principal ports whence it was shipped are New York and New 
Orleans ; some cargoes came from Mobile and Charleston. 

2. The rate of freight from New Orleans and Mobile fluctuated 
between £ and 1\ cents per lb. ; \\ and 1^ cents per lb. is about an 
average. From New York the usual rate of freight is between \ and 
\ cents per lb. The charges attending an invoice to Hamburg are 
light, and by the taking off of all duties, less than to any other con- 
tinental ports. The charges here are : Stade duty, (levied by the 
Hanoverian government.) 

U. B. 24 g. gr.=l mark current, f groschen per 100 lbs. 
Delivery, &c, 8 B. per bale. 
Brokerage, f per cent. 
Commission, 2 per cent. 

3. The whole of our importation goes to the interior ; chiefly to 
Saxony, Bohemia, Austria, and latterly to Bavaria and Switzerland. 
A good deal of the finer qualities, fully good middling, to fully fair, 
is going to Russia, and some to Sweden and Poland. All classifica- 
tions are quite ready of sale, but middling to middling fair are the 
most sought for. 

4. All Hamburg duties on cotton-wool have been removed, only 
the Stade duty ; a passage toll laid by Hanover remains. 

5. Of cotton yarns and twist about 35,000 bales touch our port in 
transit from England to the interior per annum ; none is sold or 
brought here, as we have no market for the article There are no 
duties besides the Stade duties, (11 B. banco per bale.) 

6. Our importation and exportation of the fabrics or tissues of 
cotton, &c, reach a great extent, but we cannot give the particular 
statistics. 

7. Against shipment of cotton to our markets, reimbursement is 
taken from the south of the United States, on New York, by sight 
drafts, at from 2 per cent, discount to 2 per cent, premium, but usually 
at 1 per cent, discount ; and from New York drafts are issued at 60 
days sight, usually at the exchange of 36^- to 36f cents per 1 B. 
banco. 

8. Fabrics, tissues, &c, are the chief articles returned from the 
interior for supplies of cotton ; and our exportation of such goods, 
&c, reaches so high an amount that the most of the remittances made 
from the interior to other cotton markets consist in drafts on Hamburg 
against the excess of goods sent hither for shipment. 

9. All kinds of goods, fabrics, &c, are shipped to the United States 
from our port, overreaching by far the amount of our importation of 
cotton. 

With high respect, I remain sir, your most obedient servant, 

AD. SOETBEER, Dr. 
Mr. John Claiborne, 

Special Agent, dec. 



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Ex. Doc. 35- 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE. 



A statement of the quantity and value of cotton-wool exported from Ham- 
burg in ,185 5, with the countries to which it was sent; values and 
if eights according to the United States standard. 



Pounds. 



Dollars. 



Sweden _ 

Prussia _ 

Bremen and the Weser 

Great Britain 

France 

Altona, &c 

Altona and Kiel railroad 

Lubeck 

Berlin and Hamburg railroad 

By wagons and boats 

Harbnrg, mid beyond 

The upper Elbe 

Total 



85.490 

34,808 

139,950 

82,652 

21,311 

1,39-1,150 

101,532 

2,569,078 

25,545,790 

26,554 

12.506,447 

10,679,306 



53,147.068 



8,410 

2,713 

3,815 

.8,372 

2,548 

129,535 

11,872 

304,234 

2,347,457 

2,409 

1,028,010 

996,419 



.4, 845, 884 



ADDENDA. 

Bremen Legation, 
Washington, February 13, 1858. 

Sir : Knowing the interest taken by the department in collecting 
information that may stimulate home production, by pointing out the 
natural channels and avenues into which foreign demand must 
eventually lead American commerce, I take pleasure in transmitting 
to you a memoir on the consumption of cotton in the German 
Zollverein, which, founded on official and most reliable private sources, 
will serve to prove how rapidly the consumption of cotton is increasing 
in Germany, and the justness of the assumption that this increase 
"will continue in the immediate future. 

I avail myself of this opportunity to offer you the assurance of my 
very high consideration. 

R. SCHLEIDEN. 

Hon. Jacob Thompson, 

Secretary of the Interior of the United States, Washington, D. O. 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



51 



The consumption of cotton of the German Zollverein. 

According to the treasury reports on the commerce and navigation 
of the United States, the exports of American cotton to Bremen and 
Hamburg during the last four financial years were as follows : 



Year. 


To Bremen. 


To Hamburg. 


Bales. | Pounds. 

j 


Value. 


Bales. 


Pounds. 


Value. 


1853-54 


23,959,656 


$2,232,222 
2,020,438 
4,238,497 
4,356,418 


18, 672 
34,192 
22,720 


13,760,266 

8,148,818 

15,609,844 

10,524,075 


$1,304,138 


1854-'55 

1855-'56 

1856-'57 


51,648 1 22,661,173 

103,054 j 46,456,809 

71,165 ! 34,378,685 

1 


761,572 
1,469,753 
1,311,935 



Although the quantity exported during the last year was smaller 
than that shipped during the previous one, yet the increased value of 
the article makes up fully for the decreased quantity, the same having 
doubled during both of the last two years. In fact, Bremen and Ham- 
burg import more American cotton than any other country, except 
Great Britain, France, and Spain. In order to appreciate how far 
this state of things rests on a sound basis, it seems fit to inquire into 
the wants of those countries which nature itself has taught to look to 
the above ports as the proper markets for supplying themselves. 

While there are about 3^ millions of spindles in France, and about 
21 millions in Great Britain, there were working at the beginning of 
the present year in the German Zollverein : 





Cotton man- 
ufactories. 


With spin- 
dles. 


Consuming 
bales of 
American 
cotton. 


Bales of East 
India cotton.* 


In Bavaria . 


16 

133 

20 

10 

12 

1 

4 


316,700 
554, 646 
289,000 
185,600 
119,000 
48,800 
20,400 


29,800 
34,200 
22,500 
18,600 
11,950 
3,000 
1,200 


5, 800 


In the kingdom of Saxony 

In Prussia 


34,000 
9,000 


In Baden 


6, 200 


In Wurtemburg 


3,700 


In Hanover 


3.000 


In Oldenburg .. 


3,200 






Total 


196 


1,534,146 


121,050 


64,900 







Grand total, 185,950 bales. 

* We use here the expression " East India" cotton as a general term for all species spun 
in the Zollverein besides American cotton. 



52 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

The manufacture will be increased during the present year by : 



Cotton man- 
ufactories. 



Spindles. 



To consume j Bales of East 
bales of j India cotton. 
American. 



In Bavaria 

In Saxony 

In Prussia 

In Baden 

In Wurtemburg 

In Hanover 

In Oldenburg .. 



Total. 



12 



232,000 
50,000 

135, 000 

25,000 

15,000 

7,000 

20,000 



484,000 



20,250 
3,500 

10,500 
1,500 
1,650 



1,000 



38,300 



4,400 
2,000 
4,000 



1,000 
1,000 



12,400 



Grand total, 50,700 bales. 

There will be, therefore, in working order next year 



s-£ 



In Bavaria 18 

In Saxony 134 



In Prussia 

In Baden 

In Wurtemburg. 

In Hanover 

In Oldenburg — 



2<; 
n 

12 

2 
5 



Spindles. 



To consume 
bales of 
American. 



548,700 
604,646 
424,000 
210,600 
134,000 
55,800 
40,400 



Total in Zollverein.. 208 



2,018,146 



50,050 
36,700 
33,000 
20,100 
13,600 
3,000 
2,200 



158,650 



Bales of East 
India cotton. 



10,200 
36,000 
13,000 
6,200 
3,700 
4,000 
4,200 



77,300 



Total. 



60, 250 lbs 

73,700 

46,000 

26,300 

17,300 

7,000 

6,400 



235,950 



In 1856 the number of spindles actually in operation within the 
German Zollverein was only 1,200,000, and the amount of cotton 
consumed 160,000 bales. 

The above statement, which is brought down to the present day, 
shows the former number increased within two years to 1,534,000, 
and the cotton consumed to 186,000 bales, while these numbers will 
be further increased, during the present year, to: manufactories 208, 
spindles 2,018,146, and bales needed tor consumption 235,950. 

Furthermore, the Austrian empire, according to the last reliable 
statistics, of the year 1851, numbered 208 cotton manufactories; with 
a total of 1,482,138 spindles, and of a consuming capacity of 130,000 
bales. 

Although it was impossible to gather newer dates from that quarter, 
the increase since may be safely estimated at 15 per cent. Of those 
Austrian manufactories are situated : 



Manufactories. 



Spindles. 



Bales. 



In Tyrol... 
In Bohemia 

Total 



20 

79 



195,000 
460,000 



17,000 
35,000 



99 



655,000 



52,000 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 53 

The statistics of these two countries are of particular interest on 
account of the greater quantity of the raw materials, needed by them, 
being imported by Bremen and Hamburg, and a considerable part of 
their manufactured articles being consumed in the Zollverein. But 
the manufactories of the other parts of Austria, although they do not 
sell much to the countries of the Zollverein, have lately commenced 
to import part of the raw materials needed by those northern ports, 
as the cheapest and speediest way of procuring them. 

Great as the increase of the cotton manufacture has been throughout 
Germany, the fact of the continuing importation of English cotton 
goods, amounting, for the Zollverein alone, to 550,000 cwts. a year — 
the manufacture of which will require at least 175,000 bales — gives 
additional evidence of this branch of industry being capable of still 
more successful development; and, consequently, there is still a great 
field open for improving the direct cotton trade between the United 
States and Germany, by the way of Bremen and Hamburg. This is 
rendered less doubtful, as these seaports are already capable, in conse- 
quence of their extensive shipping, and of a general reduction in the 
rates of railroad freight throughout Germany, to supply to an impor- 
tant amount the wants of countries beyond the Zollverein. Among 
these countries Austria and Switzerland are prominent, where there 
are respectively about 1,500,000 and 1,250,000 of spindles in operation, 
and where Bremen and Hamburg compete successfully with the ports 
of France, Belgium and Holland; these, on the other hand, supply- 
ing part of those States of Germany which, according to their situa- 
tion, could be better provided by the German ports. 

Comparing, therefore, the amount imported by foreign ports into 
the Zollverein, and that imported by German ports into foreign coun- 
tries, Bremen and Hamburg are no doubt destined to import, in the 
course of time, at least, such a quantity of cotton as is required by the 
Zollverein, viz: 236,000 bales. For the present, however, the direct 
imports of Bremen and Hamburg fall about 90,000 bales short of this 
amount ; these, during the year ending the 31st of December last, 
having been only as follows : 

At Bremen 86,079 bales of American cotton. 

25,605 bales of East India cotton. 
533 bales of South American cotton. 
395 bales of West India cotton. 



Total 112,612 bales. 



At Hamburg 25,599 bales of American cotton. 

15,582 bales of East India cotton. 
1,033 bales of South American cotton. 
6,373 bales of West India cotton. 

Total 48,587 bales. 

At Bremen 112,612 bales. 

Grand total 161,199 bales. 



54 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



RUSSIA. 

The empire of Russia has kept a nearly equal pace with the other 
continental states in the increase of consumption and manufacture of 
cotton ; and her most enlightened statesmen seem fully to appreciate 
the importance of this great branch of industry, though some of them 
do not conceal their dissatisfaction at the inroads it has made upon 
the manufacture of flax, which is a raw material of domestic growth, 
while every pound of cotton is exotic. 

A very interesting account of the history of the use and progress 
of the domestic manufacture of cotton, and the fluctuations to which 
it has been subject, either from financial or political causes, is to be 
found in the second volume of Prince Tegoborski's u Commentaries on 
the productive forces of Russia," a work highly prized by his country- 
men, and which is regarded as a standard authority on all subjects of 
which it treats. 

Beginning by stating what he conceives to be the leading points of 
advantage or disadvantage to Russia, from cotton manufactures and 
their continued increase, the author proceeds to a clear and succinct 
narrative of their establishment, and the progress which they had 
made up to the year 1852, from which the following statements are 
compiled : 

The first spinning mill was established in 1823 ; and two years 
later, the only one of any importance in the country was that owned 
by the government at Alexandrovsky, on the Neva, a few miles above 
St. Petersburg. 

During the succeeding ten years but little increase in the number 
of mills was evident ; and, in 1835, the importation of cotton-wool 
reached only 200,000 poods, of 36 English pounds each ; or 7,200,000 
pounds ; the manufacture of fabrics reaching 800,000 poods, or 
28,800,000 pounds, showing how much they still were dependent on 
other countries for supplies of yarns. At the time of the first spin- 
ning mill being put into operation, the Russian tariff absolutely pro- 
hibited the introduction of cotton prints, and, on plain cottons, duties 
ranging from 60 to more than 100 per cent, were imposed. The con- 
sequence was, that cotton manufacture " monopolized speculation, to 
the detriment of many other branches of industry;" and its progress 
was rapid, as is shown by the table of the triennial averages of im- 
portation of the raw material, and of twist, beginning with 1824 : 



' Tears. 


Pounds of raw cotton. 


Pounds of twist. 


1824-'26 


2.673,648 

3,534,480 

4,175,856 

6,162,804 

10,180,764 

12,807,864 

18,882,396 

28,085,364 

47,845,116 

52,585,632 

62,940,456 


2,022.606 


1827-29 


15,860,952 


1830-'32 „ 


19,211,540 


1833-'35 


19,678,364 


1836-'38 


21,561,668 


1839-'41 


19,515,500 


1842-'44 


21,318,948 


1845-'47 


18,156,096 


1848-50 


10,134,720 


1851 


5,685,516 


1852 


4,058,388 







CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE. 55 

" Thus," says Prince Tegaborski, " we see that the importation of 
raw cotton has followed a continuously ascending movement, exhibiting 
in its latest results an augmentation in the proportion of 1 to 24 ; 
whilst that of twist, after nearly tripling, in the course of the first 
fifteen years, has fallen gradually to a third of the cypher of 1824-'26 ; 
and to less than a fifth of its culminating cypher of 1836-'38." 

Taking the period of sixteen years 1834 to 1850, the increase in 
Eussian cotton manufactures, as compared with that of France, was 
nearly as 3 to 2 ; compared to that of Austria, it was, as 10 to 44 ; 
the duty on the raw material being raised in Russia from 5 to 6| 
roubles per pood, while in Austria it has been lowered from 30, 60, 
and 81 florins, according to quality, to a uniform rate of 10 florins the 
centner. With the states of the Zollverein, the comparison was in 
favor of the latter, being in the proportion of 6 to 5. From the com- 
mencement, cotton yarn had been protected by a duty of 5 roubles 
($3 75) the pood ; but still the spinneries made little perceptible pro- 
gress until 1842. 

Among the other struggles undergone by the spinners was that of 
the impossibility of procuring, up to that date, proper machinery, the 
exportation of that of English manufacture being prohibited, and 
they had consequently to rely on the " defective" machinery of France 
or Belgium. At the period of the great commercial crisis of 1841-'42, 
the spinners at Moscow solicited and obtained from the government, 
as a temporary measure, an increase in the duty on cotton yarns, and 
it was accordingly raised to 6| rubles ($4 88) the pood, at which point 
it remained at the time the author was writing. As will be seen here- 
after, this rate has been greatly lowered by the tariff of 1857. This 
duty of 6^ roubles the pood was deemed equal in yarns of medium 
fineness, 20-40, to "the enormous rate of 60 per cent, and upwards, 
ad valorem" and gave a great impulse to the spinning mills ; so that 
while in 1848-'50, they furnished 82 per cent, of the whole quantity 
of yarn used in the weaving industry of the country, they, in 1852, 
furnished all of it but about 7 per cent. But this apparently proper- 
ous state of affairs, was nevertheless, in the view of Prince Tegaborski, 
accompanied with risks and inconveniences ; for, as he observed, the 
heavy duty on yarn, while it had rendered the manufacturers inde- 
pendent, had also made fabrics dear, and "a host of speculators, 
working on borrowed capital, at a high rate of interest," had started 
a number of ill regulated establishments, which, without the bounty 
of a highly protective tariff, could not exist. 

In quality, the mass of the yarns produced in Russia are of the 
lower numbers, 48, 50, being the highest ; most spinners turn out No. 
30 to 40 mule, and 20 to 30 water twist, those qualities forming the 
bulk of consumption ; " and it is desirable that they should remain 
upon this good path," for, " if they were to attempt competition in 

e higher numbers with their brethren of England, who have brought 
their yarn to a pitch of fineness which we may almost term fabulous, 
it would, in our opinion, be a question rather of amour propre than of 
real utility." There was no evidence, at the period of my visit to the 
country, and interviews with some of the mill owners and importers, 
of a disregard of the advice thus given ; Russia will, for a long time 



56 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

yet to come, adhere to the production of the ordinary numbers, and 
the fabrics woven from them, they being best suited to her domestic 
demand, and that of such countries in Asia as she supplies with either 
article. 

With regard to the number of spindles in Russia at the time he 
wrote, the author says, that it had been common to assume one for 
each pood of raw cotton ; but. this he regarded as too low, citing the 
work of M. Sainoiloff, on the Spinneries of the Government of Mos- 
cow, of which there were, in 1843, twenty-two, reckoning 155,404 
spindles, and yearly producing 155,949 poods of yarn, none of which 
was finer than No. 38, 42 ; which gave an average of 40 T Vo- pounds per 
spindle ; in making up his own estimate, he assumes the proper 
average to be 45 pounds per spindle, and making his calculation upon 
the importation of 1,329,031 poods of raw cotton, and the production 
of 1,129,000 poods of yarn, during the triennial period of 1848-'50, he 
arrives at the number 1,004,000, which, together with 50,000 then 
in operation in the kingdom of Poland, and those in the spinning mills 
of the grand duchy of Findland, he concludes that the total number 
may be set down at 1,100,000 spindles ; the justness of this conclusion 
he strengthens by comparisons with the estimated number of spindles 
and the production of yarn in England, France, and several other 
countries, and assigns to Russia the fifth place in spinning industry 
among those nations where it " had attained to a certain degree of 
importance." The order in which he named those nations was: 
England, France, the United States, Austria, Russia, the Zollverein 
States, Switzerland, Belgium, Ttaly, and Spain. 

On this subject of cotton spinning, later information, as to the num- 
ber of mills and spindles, will be found in the communication, here- 
after alluded to, of M. Boutowen. 

In the department of weaving, Prince Tegaborski observes, that the 
1,371,196 poods (51,363,056 pounds) of cotton fabrics manufactured 
in Russia, according to the average importation of raw cotton and 
twist, during the triennium of 1848-'50, represent at the rate of 40 
roubles ($30) per pood, a value of 54,847,840 roubles, ($41,136,880.) 
In Poland he places the manufacture, according to information which 
he regards as more reliable than official returns, at 500,000 poods, all 
of which, being very common calicoes and stuffs, he estimates as worth 
only 25 roubles ($18 75) the pood, or $937,500, making a total of 
56,000,000 roubles, or $42,000,000, from which, making the following 
deductions, 

1. About 1,400,000 poods (50,400,000 lbs.) of raw 
cotton, including importations into Poland, at R. 6 

($4 50) perpood R. 8,400,000 

2. About 300,000 poods (10,800,000 lbs.) of yarn, in- 
cluding importations into Poland, in round numbers R. 5,000,000 

3. For at least 1,000,000 poods (36,000,000 lbs.) of 
cotton prints, the value of the tinctorial and chemi- 
cal substances used, at R. 5 ($3 75) per pood R. 5,000,000 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 57 

4. About 4 per cent, on the total value of the manu- 
facture, to represent interest of capital employed 
in the acquisition of machinery imported, in round 
numbers R. 2,000,000 



Total E. 20,400,000 



He arrives at the conclusion that the addition made annually by this 
branch of industry to the national wealth is equal to R. 35.600^000 
or $26,700,000. In a note it is stated that in 1852 the importations 
of raw cotton and twist gave 1,599,000 poods, (59,564,000 lbs.,) repre- 
senting a value of R. 63, 96®, 000 or $47,960,000. 

As to the number of persons employed in cotton manufacture, only 
approximative estimates could be made. 

The 22 spinning mills in the government of Moscow, in 1843, with 
their 155,404 spindles, employed 8,348 hands, or 19 spindles to each 
hand; assuming 20 spindles as a fair average to each person employed, 
and with an assumed total of spindles of 1,100,000, the result would 
be 55,000 persons in that branch. 

At that period there were in the same government 382 other 
establishments for weaving, bleaching, dyeing, &c, employing 
altogether about 42,500 operatives, and producing fabrics to the value 
of 12,500,000 roubles, or $9,475,000, being an average of 294 roubles 
($211 50) per operative. With this proportion there would be 
required for a production of 56,000,000 roubles, ($42,050,000,) 
190,000 operatives ; but, as in that calculation, the weavers working 
outside the mills in the villages, &c, were not included, 200,000 was 
assumed as the true number of employes in all departments. 

Regarding the annual consumption, per capita, of cotton manufac- 
tures, it is said: "In Russia, the average quantity manufactured 
during the period of 1848-'50, amounted, as has been already seen, 
to 1,371,196 poods, (49,363,056 pounds ;) adding the quantity 
manufactured in the kingdom of Poland, (about 50,000 poods,) we 
may estimate the total quantity manufactured in the country at 
1,420,000 poods, (51,120,000 pounds.) The average value of the 
importation, during the same period, was 3,857,000 roubles — equiva- 
lent, at the rate of 60 roubles per pood, to 64,283 poods. The 
average exportation to Asia represented a value of 2,370,000 roubles — 
equivalent, at the rate of 40 roubles per pood, to 59,265 poods ; so 
that the importation and the exportation nearly balanced each other. 
There remained, therefore, for home consumption, 1,420,000 poods, 
which, distributed over a population of sixty-five and a half millions, 
gives 0.87 pounds, Russian, per inhabitant. The value of the home 
manufacture being 56,000,000, and the excess of the importations 
1,487,000 roubles, the total value of the consumption is 57,487,000 
roubles, or 88 kopecs (100 to the rouble) per inhabitant.'' 

That this proportion has considerably augmented during the past 
seven years, notwithstanding the war with the western powers, there 
can be no doubt ; and in this respect Russia approaches nearer to 
other continental European nations than she then did. 



58 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

The fabrics mostly produced are of a common description, as 
calicoes, plain cottons, nankins, &c. ; the finer fabrics, as muslins, 
jaconets, fine handkerchiefs, plushes, &c, requiring nicer apparatus 
and more skilful hands. The former class are woven throughout the 
villages and country ; the latter only in establishments especially 
constructed for the purpose. The peasants employed themselves 
weaving only in the intervals of their ordinary labors, and were 
therefore content with moderate wages ; for a piece of 54 archnics in 
length by 1 in breadth, (somewhat more than three-quarters of a yard,) 
the* price paid was seldom higher than 2 papers, or 1 silver rouble, 
(silver rouble equal to 75 cents.) At Moscow, and for better weaving, 
2 silver roubles was sometimes paid per square archnic ; further east- 
ward, in the government of Wladimir, not more than 3 paper kopecs, 
or ■§• kopec silver, for the square archnic, was allowed for weaving, 
and considerable speculation is carried on to secure the profits by a 
class of small capitalists, who act as middle men between the sub- 
stantial capitalists and the weavers. 

Mr. Scherer, an authority on this subject, had arranged the cotton 
fabrics pr§ duced in Russia into three classes : 

1. Common calicoes, at the average price of 6 kopecs silver per 
archnic. 

2. Medium calicoes, at the average price of 7£ kopecs silver per 
archnic. 

3. Finer calicoes, at the medium price of 8| kopecs silver per 
archnic, the length of the piece being from 32 to 54 archnics, and the 
breath f, -| , -f-, and \ archnics. 

"Of all branches of the cotton manufacture," observes Prince 
Tegaborski, " this, in our opinion, is the most important and the most 
advantageous for the country. It is exercised on an article of con- 
sumption accessible to the numerous classes, and it increases the 
means of our rural population, without interfering with their family 
habits." f 

Power loom weaving had been introduced into Russia previous to 
1850, the great obstacle to its extension being found in the cost of 
the machines ; the principal seat of the manufacture was at Moscow, 
though it was also practiced at St. Petersburg, and at other points of 
the empire. Velveteens, destined for the Asiatic markets, were also 
manufactured to a considerable extent, from 1,800,000 to 2,000,000 
archnics, being annually sent into China, and during the English war 
with that power, 3,000,000 archnics. Bobbinet machines had also 
been put into operation at St. Petersburg, being the invention of Hay- 
mann, of Mulhouse, in France. 

In 1843, M. Scherer reckoned that there were 140 weaving estab- 
lishments in the country, besides the innumerable looms to be found 
in the villages and their vicinities, and the number of both was con- 
tinually increasing, while the native weavers were advancing in skill 
and the neatness of their work. Printing had been introduced as far 
back as 1828, and numbers of Swiss and Germans had engaged in it, 
carrying on a growing and lucrative business. There is much of this 
work now carried on in the government of Wladimer, the articles 
produced being generally destined for the cheapest markets, while 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 59 

those of a dearer class are principally printed at St. Petersburg. At 
Moscow, both the common and the finer fabrics are printed, and, ac- 
cording to M. Samoiloff, that government contained, in 1843, three 
hundred and eighty-two (382) weaving and printing establishments, 
of which the annual products amounted to 12,417,000 roubles, 
($9,312,750;) of these, the city of Moscow and its environs possessed 
176, producing to the value of 8,202,000 roubles. Next after the 
government of Moscow, in this respect, ranked that of Wladimir, and 
afterwards, that of Kostroma, which together produced as much as 
Moscow, the three producing five-eighths of the entire value of the 
cotton industry of the empire, in 1843. 

The latest improvements in machinery had been introduced, and 
the Russian printers were able to compete successfully, as to the style 
of their work, with the best establishments of France, Germany or 
Bohemia. 

Although, in several portions of his great and most valuable work 
Prince Tegaborski manifested a decided leaning to the theory of protec- 
tion to domestic manufactures, his mind was too clear and his judgment 
too impartial to permit him to close his eyes to the injury which a too 
thorough devotion to it might inflict, not only on the progress of art 
in manufacture, but upon the interests of the great mass of consumers ; 
thus he says: "Though it is unquestionable that the prohibitory 
system has given a great impulse to our manufactures, it has also 
been attended with its own disadvantages. One of the chief of these, 
setting out of view the sacrifices imposed on the consumer, has been 
the moral influence which the system has exerted on the manufacturers 
themselves. Sheltered from the competition of foreign industry, they 
have remained absolute masters of the home market, and been able to 
fix their own prices. Freed from the care of seeking foreign outlets, 
for, with the increasing demands for consumption, there was no fear 
of a want of customers, they turned their eyes incessantly to the 
tariff, which became the main regulator of their calculations. In this 
comfortable position, it required only some capital, a little intel- 
ligence, and less trouble to enable them to realize, in a short time, 
large profits ; and this was just what spoiled them." * * * <l In 
our opinion, the time has arrived when a little more competition from 
abroad has become requisite, were it only to stimulate the activity 
and intelligence of our home manufacturers, and to give them that 
confidence in their own strength which they will never acquire by 
continuing to lean upon the crutch of custom-house prohibition." 

This interesting and instructive review of the cotton manufacture of 
Piussia, as it existed previous to, and in the year 1853, contains this 
brief summary of the results of the able author's reflections : 

1. " That the cotton manufacture, occupying as it does in the total 
value of its products the next place to the linen manufacture, has at- 
tained with us a high degree of importance, and contains the elements 
of a large development. 

2. " That we possess in the different branches of this industr}'- 
many first class establishments, which may take rank alongside of the 
principal factories of the continent, or even of England ; and that 



60 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



several of these leave almost nothing to be desired in regard to their 
technical and mechanical organization. 

3. " That, nevertheless, taken as a whole, this manufacture is, with 
us, greatly behind what it is in other countries, and especially in Eng- 
land, and that the defects which we have already pointed out are 
manifested principally at the two extremities of the scale, namely : 
the manufacture of common calicoes and of very fine fabrics ; but these 
faults are gradually disappearing, and in certain departments the 
progress made of late has been conspicuous. 

4. " That if our manufacturers adhere to the right path — that is, if, 
instead of struggling to produce articles of luxury and of great fine- 
ness, requiring highly complicated machinery, and highly skilled 
operatives, they confine their attention to the improvement of those 
branches which are most appropriate to the ensemble of our material 
and intellectual resources — we may, for all articles destined to supply 
the lower and middle classes, soon attain the continental level." 

With a population in Europe of sixty-five millions, but a small pro- 
portion of which rises to what is understood by the phrase "middle 
classes," and the great mass of which is of the lower class, together 
with the demand from the Asiatic portion of the empire and the na- 
tions which are their customers, Russian manufacturers have here 
certainly laid before them a most inviting future, and one which should 
encourage them to both activity and enterprise. 

In conclusion, the following recapitulatory table of the four prin- 
cipal branches of Russian manufactures is presented. 





Gross value of man- 
ufacture. 


Addition to national 
wealth after deduct- 
ing cost of raw ma- 
terial. 




Silver roubles. 


Silver roubles. 


Woolen 

Silk 

Cotton 


112,000,000 
46,000,000 
15,000,000 
56,000,000 


75,500,000 

29,500,000 

7,500,000 

35,000,000 






Total 


229,000,000 


148,500,000 







The number of individuals employed in these different manufac- 
tures, either constantly or a portion of the year, including all who 
are employed in the handling of the raw material or in the production 
of articles outside the manufacture, is stated at, for 

Linen and hemp 4,500,000 

Woolen 300,000 

Silk 40,000 

Cotton 260,000 

Total 5,100,000 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 61 

Under the heading of Foreign Commerce, the same author gives 
statements of the trade of Kussia with other nations, at the period of 
writing. The exports of cotton manufactures is shown by a table ex- 
hibiting the mean annual exportation since 1824, is given in periods 
of five years. The Russian values are, for the sake of convenience, 
reduced, in this table, as in those which follow, to our own. 

During the five years ending with 

1828 $589,725 

1833 966.300 

1838 904,500 

1843 1,269,000 

1848 1,615,275 

1853 1,959,525 

Note. — In a note to this table it is stated that a change in the 
official valuation of the articles sold to the Chinese had taken place, so 
that the real augmentation in value of the exportations of cotton 
manufactures had been since that date as follows : 

1842 — 1844 $1,533,825 

1845 — 1847 1,652,550 

1848 — 1850 2,027,100 

1851 — 1853 1,963,425 

The market was Asia, as, in the whole period of thirty years, the 
exports to European countries had summed up to only $387,000. 
The exportation to Asia was thus distributed : 

China $1,048,500, or 53.6 per cent. 

Steepes of the Kirghiz 605,700, or 31.0 per cent. 

Tarschkind 149,400, or 7.6 per cent. 

Bokhara 106,800, or 5.5 per cent. 

Khiva 22,275, or 1.1 per cent. 

Persia, Asiatic Turkey, and Khokan... 23,850, or 1.2 per cent. 

Total , $1,956,675, 100. 



The exports to China consisted chiefly of cotton velvets and a species 
of nankins ; to the other countries mostly of cotton prints. 

In the year 1853 Russia imported from England raw cotton to the 
value of $5,444,850 ; cotton twist to the value of $997,025 ; cotton 
manufactures to the value of $328,575. In exchange, she sent, 
among other merchandise, grain to the value of $8,140,725 ; tallow, 
of the value of $6,119,925-; flax, to the value of $6,042,375 ; &c, &c, 
making a total of $36,995,950, against an importation of a total value 
of $19,772,500. Raw cotton, nine-tenths of which was of the growth 
of the United States, constituted 28.6 per cent, of all that England 
sent to Russia. In the same year Russia received from the United 
States raw cotton to the value of $1,487,700, (being sixty-eight hun- 



62 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

dredths of total import,) of the value of $2,187,350. In return, she 
sent us a total value of $1,672,875, consisting of sailcloth and 
ccarse linen, linen and hempen yarn, iron, cordage, hemp, bristles, 
feathers, &c. 

The direct trade in raw cotton between the United States and Rus- 
sia is, however, on the increase, she having received directly from our 
ports, in 1856, an amount of 124,000 hales, which, at the rather low 
average of 450 pounds to the bale, would make a total of 55,800,000 
pounds. 

The communication of M. Boutowen, the president of the council of 
manufactures and commerce, at Moscow, kindly forwarded to me since 
I left Russia, will show what are the chief obstacles to the further in- 
crease of direct importation. It may here be said, in passing, that 
they consist, mainly, of the absence of financial facilities, and of the 
alleged defects in the classification and sorting of cotton in American 
markets. 

Ansivers to the questions relative to the cotton industry in Russia. 

1st question. In Russia there are, at this time, (November, 1857,) 
about 55 cotton spinneries, with a total of 1,200,000 spindles, and 
employing near 60,000 hands. Weaving, dyeing, and printing cot- 
ton stuffs, occupies four times that number of people. 

The principal spinneries are found in the governments of St. Peters- 
burg, Twer, Moscow, and Vladimir. Moscow and Vladimir are the 
central points for the fabrication of cotton stuffs, but a large quantity 
of them is also produced in the small manufacturing establishments 
scattered through the country in the governments of Kalonga, Taros- 
lar, and Rinson. 

The expenses for weaving vary greatly, according to the nature of 
the work by the task or by the day. The day's wages of an adult 
man are of an average of 40 to 50 silver kopecks. We estimate at 
about 2 silver roubles the cost of the labor on a pood of yarn, Nos. 38 
to 40. 

2d question. In 1853 the Russian factories consumed 1,938,000 
poods of raw cotton ; of this quantity 1,814,282 poods were of Ameri- 
can growth, imported almost exclusively by way of Kronstadt, and of 
which 475,000 poods were of direct importation ; the remainder, or at 
least the greater portion of it, was from the ports of Great Britain. 
About 124,000 poods were imported from Persia, by way of the Cas- 
pian sea, or by the land route, on the backs of camels, from Khiva, 
Boukhara, Taschkeut, and other countries of Central Asia, by way of 
Oldenbourg. An insignificant quantity was also imported from the 
Levant, by way of the Black sea. 

The price of American raw cotton, according to the quotations in 
the market of St. Petersburg, were, in 1853, from five to seven roubles 
fifty copecs the pood. At Moscow they were as high as eight roubles 
fifty copecs. At that time Asiatic cotton was selling at Moscow at 
four roubles fifty copecs. At this time, in 1857, the prices have risen 
at Moscow, for American cotton, to nine and ten roubles, and for 
Asiatic to five roubles seventy-five copecs, six roubles seventy-five 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 63 

copecs, and even seven roubles. Hereafter, when the railroad between 
Moscow and Liban is finished, the importation of cotton through the 
latter place will become more advantageous than through Cronstadt. 
The Asian cottons are used only for the lower numbers of yarns, and 
cannot compete with American for medium and fine numbers. 

3d question. Under the tariff of 1857, raw cotton coming into Eussia 
by way of the European frontier pays a duty of twenty- five copecs the 
pood ; that which comes from Asia pays five per cent, upon the declared 
value. White cotton yarn is taxed at the rate of three roubles fifty 
copecs the pood ; and so also is candlewick. Dyed yarn of all colors 
is taxed five roubles the pood. The duties are still very high, and do 
not in any respect stop the growth of national spinning. In 1856, 
before the last custom-house reform, the duty on white yarn was five 
roubles the pood. Under the new tariff, large mills have been under- 
taken and ar« about to be put into operation at Yichnii, Volotchock, 
and in the vicinity of Narva. These establishments are not included 
in the estimate above given, in answer to question No. 1. 

4th question. The spinning mills of the country produce yearly near 
1,400,000 poods of yarn, of the value of 21,000,000 silver roubles, the 
whole of which is consumed by the domestic manufacturers. 

5th question. But little sewing thread is fabricated in Eussia, the 
greater part of that description of spun yarn being imported, as well 
as of the yarns above the numbers 4*0, 42. In the year 1852, the im- 
portation of these two articles combined, by way of the European 
frontier, was 80,000 poods, of the value of near 1,000,000 silver 
roubles. Besides, hand-spun yarn was imported from Asia to the 
amount of 17,436 poods, and value of 143,000 silver roubles ; they 
are used only for the fabrication of the coarsest cloths. 

6th question. From the quantity of spun cotton, both domestic and 
imported into Eussia, the quantity of cotton stuffs therein manufac- 
tured annually is not less than 1,400,000 poods, of which 400,000 are 
sent into market bleached, and the remainder dyed or printed. The 
tissues principally fabricated are calicoes, mitrales, percales, nankins, 
ordinary indiennes, neck-handkerchiefs for peasant women, and shirt- 
ings for peasant men, persiennes for furniture, and in general those 
articles for which the yarns used vary between the lowest numbers 
and numbers 38-40. The fabrication of fine and elegant tissues, 
such as jaconets and muslins, is yet very restricted in extent. 

7th question. The value of cotton tissues of all descriptions, fabri- 
cated in Eussia, may be estimated at about 65,000,000 silver roubles. 
Nearly all of it is consumed within the country. Eussia exports cot- 
ton stuffs only to Asia, their value not exceeding 2,500,000 silver 
roubles. 

8th question. Several establishments fabricate mixed tissues of cot- 
ton and wool, such as mousselines-de laine, covers for furniture, half 
cashmeres, cassinets, lastings. &c. It is impossible to estimate, even 
approximatively, the value of the relative quantity of the cotton which 
enters into these fabrics. Besides which it is included in the proceed- 
ing estimate of the value of yarn consumed in Eussia. 

9th and 10th questions. There is no direct exchange between Eussia, 
and America; nor is there, moreover, between the two countries, direct 



64 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

commercial relations between merchant and merchant. Some Kussians 
have ordered cotton directly from America, but it was through the 
intervention of English merchants, who undertook the operation for a 
commission of one per cent. 

To purchase raw cotton, without an intermediary at New Orleans, 
or any other American port, it would be necessary for the Russian 
manufacturer to send thither an agent, with specie, or drafts bought 
in Europe. In the actual condition of things, it is much more conve- 
nient for him to buy his cotton from English merchants at London or 
Liverpool, who grant credits more or less extended, at 5 per cent, per 
annum ; besides which, in England, and particularly at Liverpool, 
where cotton is sold, after having been sorted, and under guaranty, 
while in America, cotton is put upon the market without being sorted 
and without guaranty. 

It is to be observed that the prices of cotton acquire commercial 
stability only in the English market ; consequently 3 a Russian specu- 
lator, who should go to buy raw cotton in America, even at the 
period of the crop being gathered, which is the most advantageous 
tor the purchasers, would run the risk of paying for it more than the 
current price two or three months later. All these causes combined 
induce the Russian spinner to prefer the English market to the direct 
purchase of the cotton in America.. 

Exchange on London is, on three months' bills, from 37 to 38, and 
even 39 pence the silver rouble. At this date (November, 1857) it has 
fallen to 34. _ 

11th question. The United States of North America being them- 
selves producers of the principal articles of Russian export, it is diffi- 
cult to answer this inquiry. However, it is plain that if the Americans 
could find it to their advantage to import from Russia, in exchange 
for their raw cotton, her cloths, of medium qualities, worth from eighty 
copecs to two silver roubles the archnic, with a breadth of two arch- 
nics, which are very good, as well as those stuffs called Flanders 
linens, and sail-cloths, which are already well known on the other 
side of the Atlantic, it is not to be doubted that it would lead to a 
more active commercial exchange, and facilitate the establishment of 
an interchange of products and direct trade between the two countries. 

12th question. Raw cotton, in transit through Russia, for the king- 
dom of Poland, pays a light transit duty of about ten copecs the pood. 
Cotton brought by sea into the empire does not, since the abolition of 
the Sound dues, pay any transit duty. 

13th question. The best American cotton suffers a waste of near 
15 per cent. For a pood of yarn, No. 38, one pood and seven pounds 
of raw cotton is required. 

The Asian cotton is much less pure than American, and shows a 
greater waste. 

A. BOUTOWEN, 
Counsellor of State, President of the Section of the Council of 
Manufactures and Commerce at Moscow. 



CONSUMPTION OP COTTON IN EUEOPE. 65 

An English gentleman, long resident at St. Petersburg, and inter- 
ested in two or more of the mills in the vicinity, furnished me with a 
memorandum of the amount of raw cotton received at that port up to 
the 1st of August of the last two years. 

In 1856 the amount was 1,343,038 poods, (48,349,368 pounds;) and 
in 1857 it was 1,645,606 poods, (59,241,816 pounds.) This gentle- 
man owns shares in the "Russian" cotton mill, the capital of which 
is 1,000,000 roubles, or $750,000, in shares of 1,000 roubles, with 
65,000 spindles, employing 900 hands, and yearly consuming 6,500 
bales of cotton ; and the new mill, with a capital stock of 800,000 
roubles, or $600,000, also in shares of 1,000 roubles, with 55,000 
spindles ; it employs 1,300 hands, and consumes annually 10,000 bales 
of cotton, being last summer, and perhaps still, worked day and night. 
The Eussian mill produced yarns Nos. 20 to 40 ; the new mill Nos. 
30 to 40, all for warp. Its spinning machinery was the English self- 
acting mules. A spinner, having charge of two mules, could clear 
25 roubles ($19) per month. Ordinary workers got from 7 roubles 
($5 25) to 9 roubles ($6 85) per month. The proportion of females 
to males employed was as 600 to 1,000. The raw material cost, on 
the average, delivered at the factories, 8£ roubles, or $6 38, the pood, 
or about 17 T V cents per pound, and the description of cotton was from 
middling to good middling. " 

During the last eighteen months the price of cotton yarn had ranged 
between 16 roubles and 22 roubles the pood, or from $12 to $16 50 per 
36 pounds weight, or from 33 T 3 5 to 45 T 8 ff cents per pound. The pro- 
duction to the spinner he believed to be, under the new tariff, about 
3£ roubles net the pood, or rather more than 3 pence per pound, (near 
6 cents.) 

Notwithstanding the largely increased domestic production, a con- 
siderable quantity of English yarns were still imported, there having 
been received at the custom-house in St. Petersburg up to the 1st of 
August, 1857, eighty-one thousand five hundred and seventy (81,570) 
poods, (2,936.520 pounds,) against 17,853 poods (642,708 pounds,) 
up to the same period of the previous year. 

The importation of dyed yarns had been, respectively, 1,032 poods 
(37,152 pounds) in 1857, and 392 poods (14,112 pounds) in 1856 ; of 
cotton fabrics and tissues, 10,852 poods (390,672 pounds) in 1857, and 
2,079 poods (74,694 pounds) in 1856. 

My informant believed that, under the new tariff lately enforced, 
the importation of dyed yarn and of cotton fabrics and tissues would 
increase. 

The business of spinning had been more profitable than ever during 
the years 1856-'57, and hence the activity in all the mills, most of 
which had been working day and night, large additions having been 
already made to the number of spindles, and still further ones being 
contemplated, besides the erection of new establishments on a grander 
scale than had been hitherto known. Whether the business was to 
continue as prosperous as it has of late been he considered doubtful, 
as there might be both too great a production of yarn and too great 
competition among the spinners. 

Upon the question of the supply of fuel at reasonable rates one of 
Ex. Doc. 35 5 



66 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

the first importance to the Kussian manufacturer, where all the estab- 
lishments are worked by steam — this gentleman informed me that the 
import of English coal up to the first of August, 1857, had been 
49,005 chaldrons, against 25,464, up to the same period in 1856. The 
facilities for importation were better now than they had formerly been, 
and its employment would increase. He said that, although 10 
roubles' worth of wood made as much heat as the same amount of 
coal, the latter was preferred. 

I was fortunate in procuring a letter of introduction to Mr. Robert 
Craig, the chief manager of the Newsky mill, in St. Petersburg, and 
am indebted to him for his very kind reception, and the readiness 
and intelligence with which he explained the nature and extent of the 
spinning operations at and near the capital, and the details of his 
own establishment, which is regarded by all as a model one. At the 
time of my v:«it, the Newsky mill was running 60,000 spindles, which 
were soon to be increased to 140,000. Its annual consumption was 
6,000 bales, of about 420 pounds each, all of which, with the excep- 
tion of a very small quantity of Brazilian, was of the growth of the 
United States, and was spun into yarns, ranging from No. 30 to 40, 
the great bulk of which were sent to be disposed of in the Moscow 
market. The entire supply of the raw cotton used was purchased in 
Liverpool, and complaint was made that it had, during the preceding 
year, contained more sand and dirt than usual ; there had been, how- 
ever, but little wastage, as the high prices to which the article had 
risen compelled the spinners to work it all up. 

The policy of purchasing in the Liverpool market, instead of at New 
Orleans, Mobile, or Charleston, was explained to be on account of the 
more reliable classification or sorting at Liverpool than in the United 
States. The duty of 25 kopecs (|- of a rouble, or 18f cents) per pood, 
he considered as merely nominal, and not calculated at all to affect 
consumption. The mill annually produced about 62,000 poods, 
(2,232,000 pounds,) or, by spindle, one pood each of yarns, which, at 
an average of 18f roubles the pood, were worth 1,162,500 roubles, or 
$871,875. At that time the market was good and rising. Mr. Craig 
regarded the protection under the tariff, to the spinner, as equal to 
about b\d. per pound on the yarns spun. The mill employed 700 
hands, nearly all of whom were boys, women, and girls ; men not 
being liked, or as readily to be had. The wages paid to this working 
force for 24 working days in a month, were 8,000 roubles, ($6,000,) 
they finding themselves The operatives whom I saw during their 
dinner hour were healthy and cheerful in appearance, and I was told 
by Mr. Craig that they were always contented, and a much better 
class of people than they had sometimes been represented. 

With regard to the future consumption of raw cotton in the country, 
lie regarded the prospect for its increase as very good, and on this 
point expressed some solicitude as to the capacities of our cotton- 
growing States to keep up with the increasing demand throughout 
the civilized world for that raw material, as he felt satisfied that to 
the United States must the world look as the only certain and relia- 
ble source of supply for the great bulk of the demand. I felt 
authorized to reply, that, if left to themselves and paid remunerative 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 67 

prices, our planters could largely increase their production, so that 
its amount in the total production of the world would he proportion- 
ably much greater even than it now was. In his remarks on this 
point he showed a correct appreciation of the position and advantages 
of our cotton growers, as contrasted with those of other countries. 

At the establishment of Messrs. Thomas Wright & Co., near St. 
Petersburg, I was cordially received by the chief manager, also an 
Englishman, and my questions cheerfully answered. 

This mill has 85,000 spindles, employs 700 hands, nearly all boys, 
women or girls, whose wages range from 10 to 20 roubles per month, 
and consumes, annually, about 70,000 poods of raw cotton, (2,500,000 
pounds,) and turns out nearly the same weight of cotton yarn, No. 40. 
The cotton used is New Orleans, Upland, and Boweds, mostly of mid- 
ling quality, and its average cost, on reaching the mill, is 8£ roubles 
($6 19) to 8£ roubles ($6 38) per pood. The waste did not exceed 
five per cent.; supplies purchased in England. The price of the yarns 
spun varied from 13 roubles ($9 75) to 21 roubles ($15 75) per pood, 
according to the demand. 

There are several other mills at or near the capital ; among them 
the Imperial factory, belonging to the government, at Alexandroffsky, 
with a force of 55,000 spindles. It was said not to pay any profit 
on its operations. Nearly all these various establishments Had lately 
made considerable additions to their number of spindles, or were about 
to do so. The quality of cotton consumed, that of the yarns spun, the 
rate of wages paid, &c, were, I was told, quite uniform. The ma- 
chinery is generally of the very best English manufacture, embracing all 
the most recent improvements on inventions. The same thing may 
be said of the mills at or near Moscow. 

The largest cotton importing house in Russia is that of Messrs. J. 
H. Frierichs & Co., of St. Petersburg, the resident partner being 
Mr. Marsh to whom I am, indebted for acts of courtesy and valuable 
information as to the state of the demand for cotton, present and pro- 
spective, &c, &c. 

The extent of the business affairs of this house in Russia may be 
judged of by the fact, that of 2,000,000 poods of cotton imported into 
Russia in 1856, 850,000 poods passed through its hands. From Mr. 
Marsh I learned that the importations were almost exclusively of 
American growth, Surats being never used, except when mixed with 
the better and longer stapled American cottons, a process not yet un- 
derstood by the native spinners. The firm had tried the experiment 
of importing two cargoes of Surats, but had concluded to order them 
to Iiiverpool for sale, finding they did not suit the Russian market. 

Mr. Marsh considers that the Russian practice of buying in the .Liv- 
erpool market is, in no small degree, caused by the fact that the 
managers of the mills, who are all English, are unwilling to receive 
stocks purchased elsewhere, believing that in England alone the pro- 
per classifications for the descriptions of yarn in demand in the Rus- 
sian market are to be had, and their influence prevails over other 
considerations with the owners. 

In August last, as Mr. Marsh told me, all the customers of his 
house had obtained their supply of raw cotton up to the summer, and 



68 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 

several even until the month of October, 1858. At the same time he 
estimated the stock of cotton then on sale at St. Petersburg at 25,000 
bales. The house of J. H. Frierichs & Co., which, in addition to its 
Eussian business, has a large custom in Germany, had of late decided 
to change its former system of ordering its purchases of raw cotton in 
the United States to Liverpool, and hereafter to send them to Grimsly, 
on the east coast of England, whence they might be more conveniently 
and rapidly distributed to the ports of the North sea and the Baltic. 

As to the prospect of cotton spinning in Russia, he regarded it as 
quite good, although it was not unlikely that some who were engaged 
in it, without ever having had the necessary capital, would have to 
succumb under increasing competition and high prices. 

It is a source of much regret to me that the statement, promised by 
Mr. Marsh, of the importation of raw cotton, yarns, fabrics, and 
tissues of all descriptions into Russia, with the average prices, and a 
list of the mills, the number of spindles, looms, &c, for the last four 
years, has not yet come to hand. 

The Russian cotton manufacturer, while subject to disadvantages 
caused by remoteness from the ports of the country which grows not 
less than nine-tenths of the raw material which he needs, from his 
dependence for those supplies on the intermediate market of England, 
whereby he has to pay an enhanced price, which varies according to 
the abundance of money, the activity of speculative demand, or of the 
manufacturing interest in that country, to say nothing of the long 
array of broker's and factor's commissions, charges for handling, 
warehousing, sorting, banker's profits on several sets of bills of ex- 
change, affecting the raw material, and the difficulty attending the 
navigation of the Baltic sea, with its strong currents and interruption 
of navigation for more than half the year, has, nevertheless, advan- 
tages which insure him such profits, ordinarily, as make him content 
with his position. He has abundant and cheap labor at his command, 
suffers no solicitude as to strikes or combinations among his opera- 
tives • and what is to him better than all, has a certain and profitable 
market for all articles produced by his capital and labor. There is 
but little prospect of this market failing for a long series of years to 
come, though the profits it now affords may be diminished to a point 
more nearly approaching the standard in other countries for similar 
industry. 

The importance and expediency of dirpct trade between Russia and 
this country is fully recognized by her government and the more 
intelligent of her subjects. It is understood that the Emperor is desi- 
rous of the establishment of American houses at St. Petersburg and 
Odessa, in order that the experiment of direct commercial intercourse 
may be fairly tried. 

The modifications made in the old tariff system by the tariff lately 
ordained shows that liberal ideas, in that respect, influence the 
sovereign and his ministers. 

The great system of railroads, projected to promote rapid and cheap 
communication between the shores of the Baltic and those of the Black 
sea, and between the banks of the Neva and those of the Volga, will 
be prosecuted. Already the branch of the line between St. Peters- 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 63 

burg and Warsaw, which is directed on Liban, upon the Baltic, and 
almost touching the frontier of Russia, is being constructed with all 
practicable despatch, and, when finished, will have an immense influ- 
ence on the commerce of the country with western Europe and the 
United States, as ships will be able to go there and discharge their 
cargoes a month earlier than they can do it now ; that they have to 
contend, not only with the heavy current coming from the Gulf of 
Bothnia, and the north winds which sweep down it, but also with the 
ice in the Gulf of Finland, which rarely breaks up much before the 
1st of May, and closes it by the 1st of November. 

The Russian government views the commerce by way of the Black 
sea with great favor, and in the new tariff makes a discrimination in 
the rate of duty on cotton or cotton manufactures coming into the 
empire in that direction. Besides, being rarely frozen over in winter, 
the port of Odessa offers to ships carrying thither cargoes of cotton 
certain and profitable freights to western Europe of grain, tallow, 
hides, or other articles of domestic growth, of which it is the great 
depot. 

Besides the gentlemen named above as having aided me in my 
inquiry, my particular thanks are due to Mr. Seymour, the minister, 
and Mr. Pierce, the secretary of our legation at St. Petersburg, and 
to Mr. Claxton, consul at Moscow, all of whom exhibited much interest 
in the inquiry with which I was charged, and a desire to forward it to 
the extent of their power. 

THE ZOLLVEREIN STATES. 

The German States have consumed a portion of the cotton crop of 
the United States since a period shortly posterior to its introduction 
in any considerable quantitiel into the European markets; and during 
the last decennial pfriod this consumption on their part of the raw 
material, whether of the growth of our own or other countries, has 
increased to such an extent as to command the serious attention of 
any one who takes a survey of the condition of cotton manufacture in 
Europe, and its influences on the industry, the trade, and the general 
well-being of those populations among whom it is carried on. 

Eleven German sovereignties have united themselves with the free 
Hanseatic city of Frankfort-on-the-Main for the formation of the 
Zollverein, or Customs' Union, at the head of which stands the king- 
dom of Prussia, the most important in population and political posi- 
tion, and at whose capital the affairs of the Union are managed. In 
the year 1853 the total number of inhabitants of this commercial 
league was 30,687,939, which had increased, by the census taken in 
December, 1855, to the figure of 32,559,161, of which Prussia counted 
17,286,284. 

In the year 1847 the total import of raw cotton was 364,590 Zoll 
centners, equivalent to 40,326,404 of our pounds. In 1853 it had 
increased to 810,439 centners, or 89,395,474 pounds, having much 
more than doubled in the period of thirteen years. It will be seen 
hereafter that during the same period a marked decrease in the im- 
portation of cotton yarns had taken place, which shows that the 



70 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

demand was becoming yearly less and less dependent for supply upon 
the foreign spinning mills. 

In his ' ' Statistical Review of the most important objects of the Trade 
and Consumption of the German Zollverein," for the period from 1849 
to 1853, published at Berlin last summer, Dr. G. F. Dieterici, director 
of the statistical bureau of .Prussia, furnishes a series of illus- 
trative tables which show the increasing importance of the cotton 
trade. As the work is regarded as of standard authority, the tables 
which accompany the report have, where credit is not given to other 
sources, been compiled from it. 

The table A exhibits the total of the imports, exports, and transit 
of raw cotton into, from, or through each of the States of the Union 
during the year 1853 ; it will be seen that out of a total of 91,126,119 
pounds imported, Prussia received 71, 274, 407 pounds. This was 
owing rather to her geographical position, and the facilities for trans- 
portation which it afforded, than to the extent of her manufacture, as, 
in that respect, she is exceeded by Saxony, which appears to have 
taken for consumption much less of the raw material. But it is diffi- 
cult to judge of the actual extent of consumption in any of the States 
of the Customs' Union from these tables, for the reason that raw cotton 
being free of duty there is no necessity for keeping an account of the 
real amount which goes into any one of the States composing it. In 
the year 1856 there were, according to Mr. George Von Viebahn, chief 
of division of the financial department of the ministry of commerce, 
&c, at Berlin, in the kingdom of Prussia, eighty-eight spinneries, 
with an aggregate of 288,907 spindles, which, at an estimate of forty 
pounds, each, of the raw material per annum, required only 11,556,280 
pounds of it. 

According to official publications, kindly furnished me by Mr. Von 
Viebahn, the importation of raw cotton into the Zollverein during the 
year 1855 amounted to 936,406 centners, or 118*820,546 pounds ; and 
for the first quarter of 1857, to 238,323 centners, or 26,288,219 pounds. 

With regard to the extent and condition of cotton manufacture, it 
may be said that its march, particularly during the past twenty years, 
has been, on the whole, steady and progressive, as within that period 
the extension of railroads into nearly every portion of the territory 
has afforded facilities which were before unknown for the speedy and 
cheap transportation of both the raw material and of articles fabricated 
from it ; thus bringing into play the natural advantages for manufac- 
turing possessed by many of the interior countries of Germany, but 
which, owing to difficulty of access, had before remained unused. In 
this way an impetus has been given to manufacturing industry in 
Bavaria, Wurtemburg, and the upper portions of the Grand Duchy 
of Baden, which promises, at no distant day, very important results. 

Cotton spinning by machinery has been known in Saxony for nearly 
forty years ; but neither there, nor in any other of the States composing 
the Zollverein, does it appear to have made any very marked progress 
until the year 1836, which is spoken of by all who speak or write on 
the subject in Germany as one fraught with interest in its history, as 
it was the era of the establishment in Bavaria and elsewhere of sev- 
eral extensive establishments modelled on those of England, and on a 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTOJS" IN EUROPE. 71 

scale hitherto unknown, which, having met with abundant success in 
their operations, gave encouragement to others to embark their sur- 
plus capital in similar enterprises. Labor being abundant and cheap, 
and supplies of the raw material readily obtainable, the German spin- 
ners have been able, by a system of judicious management, and by 
studying the wants of their home markets, to place themselves on a 
firm footing. And the manufacturer of the present day, although 
subject to suffering from occasional fluctuations from financial crises 
in the commercial world, on the whole, holds a position which is quite 
satisfactory. 

Dr. Engel, the distinguished statistician, of Dresden, in his History 
of Cotton Spinning in Saxony, lately published, speaking of the con- 
dition and extent of those establishments in the Zollverein devoted 
to it, remarks : ""The Zollverein, in 1855, contained 1,200,000 spindles, 
consuming 63,600,000 pounds of raw cotton, and producing yearly 
50,880,000 pounds of yarn, with a waste of 20 per cent, on the raw 
material ; the annual yield per spindle being 42.4 pounds, which 
appears higher than the yield in England, but the difference is ex- 
plained by the average number of English yarns being much higher." 
And again : " A comparison of these figures with the English is very 
encouraging to the enterprising spirit of the German mill owners. 
The supply thus furnished is equal to 1.56 pounds to each inhabitant. 
Estimating the actual consumption at only three pounds per inhabit- 
ant, and supposing the supply to be altogether of domestic spinning, 
the amount of yarn produced would be 47,000,000 pounds more than 
is above stated, which would require an addition of from one to one 
and a half million of spindles." 

Since the year 1836, there have been established very extensive 
spinning mills at Augsburg, Kempten, and Immenstadt, in Bavaria; 
Urach, in Wurtemburg ; Arlen, Ettlingen, and other points, in Baden; 
and at various places in Rhenish Prussia, Ehenish Bavaria, and 
Silesia. 

According to Dr. Engel, the leading causes which have favored the 
development of cotton spinning are the magnificent water power 
found in the highland districts of some of the States, the encourage- 
ment afforded by government, and the success of the establishments 
on a large scale, and in imitation of the English system. The German 
spinners have not attempted, so far, competition with England, or 
other countries in fine spinning, avoiding thus both the increased ex- 
pense of fitting their mills with the necessary machinery, and the 
additional cost of working up the raw material. 

By adhering to the plan of spinning the lower numbers only, the 
average in 1855 being No. 23, they have obtained almost the entire 
supply of the home market. The duties being specific, (by weight,) 
instead of ad valorem, they would labor under great disadvantages in 
a struggle with a country so advanced in the art of cotton spinning 
as England, as the duties by weight in fine yarns, although greater 
nominally, are really much less than those on the coarser and heavier 
qualities ; hence, a considerable import of the finer numbers of yarns 
is still kept up, while that of the lower ones is quite limited, they 
having been appropriated by the domestic spinners, who have also, as 



72 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

Doctor Engel thinks, a fine prospect for spinning hereafter, with 
profit, the finer ones also. 

The tahle B presents a statement of the imports, exports, and 
transits of unbleached single or double twisted cotton yarn into, from, 
or through the States of the Zollverein during the years 1851-'53 ; 
and that marked C shows also the import, export, and transit of un- 
bleached yarns, treble-twisted or over, during the same period. 

Of the first named descriptions the imports were as follows : 1851, 
53,659,839 pounds; 1852, 51,209,322 pounds; 1853, 52,517,991 
pounds. The exports were, in 1851, 1,498,379 pounds ; in 1852, 
1,461,210 pounds ; in 1853, 1,500,034 pounds. The transits were, in 
1851, 8,106,512 pounds; in 1852, 10,493,931 pounds ; and in 1853, 
9,634,529 pounds. 

Of unbleached, treble-twisted yarns, the imports were, in 1851, 
336,661 pounds; in 1852, 354,977 pounds; and in 1853, 336,267 
pounds. The exports were, in 1851, 1,938,410 pounds ; in 1852, 
2,212,054 pounds ; and in 1853, 2,740,949 pounds. 

The transits were, in 1851, 1,311,848 pounds ; in 1852, 1,178,836 
pounds; and in 1853, 1,086,062 pounds. The official documents 
above spoken of, as furnished by Mr. Von Viebahn, show an importa- 
tion of unbleached, single and double twisted yarns, in 1855, of 
492,186 centners, or 54,290,576 pounds ; and in 1856, of 493,490 
centners, or 54,434,413 pounds; and of unbleached, treble twisted yarns, 
an import, in 1855, of 2,453 centners, or 270,579 pounds ; and in 
1856, of 2,495 centners, or 275,211 pounds. 

The values are not given in any of these tables, not being required 
at the custom-houses; but the Germania, a politico-economical jour- 
nal, published at Heidelberg, and regarded as reliable authority, 
places the value of the entire import of cotton yarn, in 1855, at the 
sum of 14,564,400 thalers, which, at 69 cents each, is equal to 
$10,049,436 ; and in 1856, at 15,164,690 thalers, or $10,463,636. ^ 

The duty on unbleached, single or double twisted cotton yarn, is 3 
thalers, or $2 07, the centner (llOyVvV pounds) ; and on unbleached, 
treble, or over-twisted yarn, it is 8 thalers, or $5 22, the centner. 

The transit duties are regulated according to the tariffs of the States 
through which the rivers, on which most of the carriage is accom- 
plished, run. They vary somewhat, but are not onerous. Considerable 
time might be required to ascertain their precise nature and amount. 

Of cotton tissues, hosiery, &c, the importation in 1855 was 7,764 
centners, or 856,408 pounds ; and in 1856 it was 9,139 centners, or 
1,008,078 pounds, upon which the duty was 50 thalers, or $34 50, the 
centner. 

In the kingdom of Prussia, there were in the year 1856 eighty- 
eight spinning mills, running 288,907 spindles. In 1852 there were 
in the kingdom 71,267 looms, of which 2,500 were machine looms, 
and the remainder hand. They produced every description of ordi- 
nary to fine cotton, pure or mixed stuffs. The cotton manufacture of 
Prussia is for the most part carried on in her Rhenish provinces, 
which were not visited by me, for want of time. Of late, that branch 
of industry has made progress in and around Berlin. 

Saxony has hitherto been considered at the head of cotton manufac- 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE. 73 

turing industry among the States of the Zollverein, though of late 
Bavaria has begun to contest with her this supremacy. The work of 
Dr. Engel, quoted above, gives many details on the past progress and 
the present condition of the industry. 

In 1857, the number of mills in the kingdom, according to a state- 
ment kindly furnished me by Dr. Christian A. Weinlig, chief of division, 
&c, in the ministry of finance, was 135, running 600,000 spindles. 
The consumption of raw cotton was about 30,000,000 pounds, of 
which 12,950,595 pounds, were of the growth of the United States, 
almost all of which was imported via Bremen ; and 11,432,463 pounds 
of the growth of the East Indies, imported via Hamburg. 

On the American cotton the waste averaged 18 per cent.; on the 
East Indian, 24 per cent. ; making a general average waste of 20.81 
per cent. 

The actual production of varn of all numbers — the average being 
23— was 19,308,160 pounds," of the total value of 5,470,645 thalers. 
The prices of yarn are regulated by those current at the time in the 
English or Hamburg markets, adding two new groschen, or four cents, 
for duty, transportation, &c. 

The domestic production of yarn is all consumed at home ; besides 
which, there is an additional demand for about 15,000,000 pounds 
English, of yarn and twist. 

There are, it is said, but very few purchases of American cotton 
made by direct negotiation, intermediate agencies at Bremen or in 
England being used. This remark will apply also to most other 
parts of Germany. 

In the year 1857 there were in Saxony 20,000 looms, of which 
500 were machine, employed in weaving pure cotton tissues ; from 
8,000 to 10,000 looms employed in weaving tissues of mixed cotton 
and linen; and from 20,000 to 25,000 looms, of which 1,000 were 
machine, employed in weaving tissues of mixed cotton and wool ; 
and 3,000 stocking weaving looms, about 400 of which consumed 
pure cotton thread. 

Mixed goods and tissues are the chief productions of Saxon manu- 
factures, consisting mainly of half cotton and half linen clothing 
stuffs, carpets, table and furniture covers, lastings, &c. There are 
also fabrics of cotton, mixed with wool or silk, too various for par- 
ticular mention. In 1855, according to Dr. Engel, the employes of 
the spinneries were : 

Adult males 4,216 

Adult females , 4,717 

Boys 1,487 

Girls 940 

Officers, &c 276 

Total amount of wages and salaries paid, $906,800. Of these, the men 
received 36.05 per cent. ; the women, 40.84 per cent.; the boys, 12.71 
per cent. ; the girls, 8.04 per cent. ; and the officers, 2.36 per cent. \ 

To the United States the exports consisted principally of hosiery, 
valued at two millions of thalers ; cotton and linen goods, valued at 
one million of thalers ; woolen cloths, valued at one and a half 



74 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE, 



million of thalers ; and other woolen goods, valued at half a 
million thalers. 

Want of time prevented my visiting either Bavaria, Wurtemburg 
or Baden, though each offered an interesting field of investigation. 

Much might be done by a properly accredited agent of the govern- 
ment, who could remain long enough in the different States of the 
Zollverein to make the acquaintance of the leading spinners in doing 
away with their erroneous ideas as to the production and trade in 
cotton, and of the practicability of direct trade between those coun- 
tries and our own. Their errors in this respect have been created 
and fostered, for the most part, by parties who have profited largely 
as the intermediaries of an indirect commercial intercourse, and 
whose plain interest it is to keep up the existing system. 

The operations of the merchants of Bremen have, indeed, done much 
to relieve the consumers of the interior from the additional price they 
have been paying for the raw material, in the shape of profits, commis- 
sions, and various other charges, to English factors, brokers, bankers, 
&c. ; but there remains yet much to be done, which, once effected, 
cannot fail, in the end, to benefit greatly both the country of produc- 
tion and that of consumption. 

At present, the average price of cotton delivered at the mills in 
Saxony is 70 pfennings for Surats, and 100 pfennings for American 
"middlings," after being cleaned. The two descriptions are gene- 
rally mixed in the proportion of one-third Surat to two-thirds Ameri- 
can. Of cotton yarn, the average price is 85 pfennings per pound. 
Six pfennings are equal to one cent of our currency. 



A. 

Statement of the import, export, and transit of cotton wool into and from 
each of the States of the Zollverein during the year 1853 ; the weights 
reduced to the standard of the United States. 



States. 


Import. 


Export. 


Transit. 


Prussia, with Luxemburg 


Pounds. 

9,494 

71,274,407 

902,075 

15,239,739 

27,025 

3,086,224 

43,681 


Pounds. 


Pounds. 


Bavaria 






Saxony . 


527,919 

14,084,221 

171,966 

185,091 




Wurtemburg . 


5 969 250 




3 202 254 


Electoral Hesse 

Duchy of Hesse 


8,226,657 


Thuringia 






Brunswick 


15,333 
525,493 






Nassau 




9, 165 


Frankfort-on-the- Main 






Add import by the post 


2,648 












Total 


91,126,119 


20,943,323 


19 660 894 







CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE. 



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CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



77 



THE AUSTRIAN EMPIRE. 

It was not in my power to obtain any information as to the date of 
the establishment of cotton spinning and manufacture in Austria or 
any of its German provinces. Of late years they have, however, in- 
creased very considerably, having shared the general prosperity of that 
branch of industry in Europe. The import of cotton wool for the 
year 1856, according to the official review of the imports and exports 
for that year, published at Vienna in 1857, amounted to 768,197 Zoll 
centners, which, at 110 T s 8 5 oV United States pounds, each, would make 
84,774,371 United States pounds ; of this 758,895 Zoll centners, or 
83,747,858 pounds, were for consumption, and 9,302 Zoll centners, or 
1,026,503 pounds, were in transit. 

The importation of 1856, compared with that of 1855, exhibited an 
increase of 140,936 Zoll centners, or 15,552,993 pounds. 

The value of the cotton consumed was, in Austrian convention, florins 
23,760,070, equal, at 48J cents each, to the sum of $10,938,634. 

Upon raw cotton and its waste, imported for consumption, no duty 
is levied ; if it be in transit, there is a small duty of six kreutzers, or 
4 r 8 ¥ cents per Zoll centner. 

" The report of the Department of Statistics, published by the Directory 
of Administrative Statistics of the Imperial Ministry of Commerce for 
the fourth year, Vienna, 1855," gives a complete list of the cotton spin- 
neries of the empire in the year 1854, from which the following table 
has been compiled: 



Provinces. 


Mills. 


No. of spindles. 


Description of yarns, &c. 


Upper Austria 


47 

9 
3 
1 
2 
22 
71 

30 

2 
1 
1 


569,979 

83,590 
25,464 
12,000 
18,300 
214,094 
449,906 

129,046 

28,464 

1,440 

960 


No. 6 up to 40, 60, 80, 100, 110, 120 


Lower Austria . . 


140. 
No. 4 to 44,50,60,80,100. 


Styria . . 


No. 6 to 40, 190. 


Carniola . 


No. 6 to 40. 


Goerz 


No. 4 to 44,"4 to 26. 


Tyrul 


No. 4 to 46, 6 to 46, 10 to 40, 30 to 40. 


hernia 


No. 1, 4, and 6, to 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 


Lombardy . 


80,90,100,120. 
No. 4 to 20 6 to 20 6 to 30 6 to 40 


Venice 


20 to 100. 
No. 6 to 40. 


Hungary ..._. 


No. 6 to 16, 6 to 20. 




No. 6 to 16. 






Total 


189 


1,533,243 









Several of these mills, also, spin twist, particularly those of Felixdorf, 
No. 30-100 ;) Truman, 6-140 ;)*and Haratic, (20-160.) 

It will be perceived that the great bulk of Austrian spun yarns are 
of the lowest numbers, ranging from No. 4 to No 50, upon which the 
tariff affords a very high and almost prohibitive protection. 

The yarns produced are mostly unbleached, and a ready home mar- 
ket is found for them. 



78 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

The demand is principally for middling qualities 16-24, which are 
worth, ordinarily, in the Trieste market 5| florins ($2 70) the package 
of 10 English pounds. When imported, they are sent chiefly to Hun- 
gary, Bosnia and Wallachia. Bleached yarns of the lower numbers 
imported cannot ordinarily compete, by reason of the duty, with those 
of domestic production. At Trieste, which is a free port, they are 
worth, generally, from 4 florins ($1 94) to 4^ florins ($2 18) the pack- 
age of 10 English pounds, and are in demand for the Levant markets. 
The duty on bleached yarn and twist is 46^ kreutzers (near 36 cents) 
the package of 10 English pounds. On bleached and twisted yarn 
the duty is 54| kreutzers (near 44 cents) in the package of 10 Eng- 
lish pounds, while on those which are dyed it is 1 florin 22 kreutzers 
(near 65 cents) for the same measure, and they are also excluded from 
the domestic market by reason of the duties. 

The domestic yarns are worth at Prague, which is the great centre 
of production, the province of Bohemia having 71 mills and 449,906 
spindles out of a total of 1,533,243, from 42 to 45 kreutzers (35 to 
36 cents) the English pound. This does not, as I was told, materially 
differ from the prices at other points of Austria. 

A very active spinning business is carried on at Prague and the 
neighboring districts of Bohemia, the raw material being almost 
wholly supplied by way of Bremen. 

The mill of Mr. Richter — the only one visited by me — has 16,000 
spindles, employs 500 hands in spinning and weaving, and consumes, 
on an average, 10,000 pounds of cotton per week, nearly all of which 
is " middling" Georgia and Louisiana, which, delivered at the mill, 
cost from 45 florins ($21 83) to 50 florins ($24 25) the centner, 
(HOfVoV United States pounds.) 

Surat is used but to a limited extent, and for the lowest numbers, 
being mixed with the other varieties. 

The yarns spun are chiefly Nos. 25 and 26, which are woven into 
ordinary cloths. The yarn of this and other lower numbers is worth 
at Prague from 42 to 45 kreutzers (33 t 6 q to 36 cents) the United 
States pound. The wages paid are, for a head spinner, from 7 to 8 
florins ($3 40 to $3 86) per week. He is allowed one assistant, at 
2 florins (97 cents,) and two boys, one of whom receives one florin 
48 kreutzers (86/,, cents,) and the other one florin 30 kreutzers (72 
cents) per week. For women and girls, the wages are from 15 to 25 
kreutzers (12 to 20 cents) per day. 

For weavers, the average wages are 3 florins ($1 45) per week. 
The working day begins at 5 a. m., and ends at 7 p. m., and an ordi- 
nary weaver can weave from 24 to 30 Austrian ells (20 to 26f yards) 
per week. 

Spinning is also carried on in all the other provinces named in the 
table to a greater or less extent; the difference being mainly in the 
fineness or coarseness of the yarns turned out. In the two provinces 
(Upper and Lower Austria) of Austria proper and Styria, a greater 
proportion of the finer numbers are turned out ; but the new material 
consumed continues to be, for by far the greater part, of the growth 
of the United States ; and, as observed in a former part of this report, 
imported for the mills in the Vorarlberg, Vienna, and Styria, by way 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUEOPE. 79 

of Bremen or Hamburg, on account of the superior advantages the 
first named city especially presents above Trieste or Vienna in the 
lowness of freights. 

The Movimento della Navigazione e Commercio, in Trieste, nelV anno 
solare 1856 — The Movement in Commerce and Navigation, in Trieste, 
for the solar year 1856 — an official publication, gives the following 
statement of the importation of raw cotton into that port in the year 
1856, with the countries or ports from which it came : 

Centners. 

From Austrian ports 427 

The Papal States 108 

Greece 99 

Sardinia 184 

France on the Mediterranean 25 

France on the Atlantic 470 

Malta 12 

Great Britain and Ireland 60,594 

Netherlands 7 

Turkey 5,180 

Egypt 102,199 

St. Domingo 150 

United States. 133,020 

Total 302,430 

Or, 33,375,326 pounds. 

The exportations for the same period were, by land, 171,387 cent- 
ners, or 18,913,412 pounds ; and by sea as follows : ■ 

Centners. 

To Austrian ports 80,180 

Papal States 442 

Greece 26 

Kingdom of Naples 1,449 

Ionian Islands 43 

Tuscany 38 

Turkey 178 

Total 82,356 

Or, 9,088,397 pounds. 

The cotton exported to Austrian ports went, as I was informed, into 
Lombardy, by way of the river Po ; and what was not demanded there 
went over the Alps into Tyrol, the Vorarlberg, and a portion also into 
Switzerland. 

The 171,387 centners exported by land was nearly all sent into 
Styria, Carniola, Gorz, &c. What effect the completion and putting 
into operation of the entire railroad line between Trieste and Vienna, 
which was accomplished last summer, may have upon the importation 
of cotton, particularly from the United States, the East Indies, or 



80 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

South America, into Trieste, remains yet to be seen. The great ob- 
stacle to any marked increase is the uncertainty of obtaining return 
freights for cotton-laden vessels ; and unless that be removed, Bremen 
will probably continue to maintain her supremacy as the entrepot for 
the much greater part of the raw material, unless Genoa should de- 
prive her of a portion of the trade, now that the Sandinian and 
Lombard lines of railroad are so extensive, and by which means, it is 
thought, Lorabardy, the Tyrol, the Vorarlberg, and even Venice 
herself, perhaps, may be supplied at a less cost of transportation than 
by ships going to either Venice or Trieste, as that port offers much 
greater prospects of ready and paying return freights than either of 
the others. 

Through the kind attention of Messrs. S. & A. Blumenthal, bankers 
at Venice, I obtained the following statement of the amount and value 
of cotton wool imported into that port during the years 1855 and 1856, 
and for the first seven months of 1857. The weights, French kilo- 
grammes, and the values, Austrian livres, are here reduced to their 
corresponding values with us. 

1855.-85,867 pounds ; value, $10,820. 
1856.-99,256 pounds ; value, $12,654. 
1857, (seven months.) — 58,123 pounds ; value, $7,462. 

The condition of the spinning and cotton manufacturing interest in. 
the Lombardo-Venitian provinces is one of great prosperity, as none 
but articles which command a ready and profitable home market are 
turned out, the cost of production, deducting that of the raw material, 
being quite moderate. 

The communication which follows is from the highly respectable 
firm of Antonio and Andrea Ponti, of Milan, who appeared to take 
the greatest pleasure in giving information, so far as it related to 
Lombardy and the other Italian provinces of Austria. 

The importation of raw cotton into Lombardy is estimated at 
30,000 bales, of which 25,000 are of the growth of the United States, 
and 5,000 of the Indies and the Levant — i. e., cottons coming from Mad- 
ras, Bombay and Surat, and cottons coming from Macedonia, Smyrna 
and Malta. 

The much greater part of the cotton from the United States, Malta, 
and the Indies, is received through the port of Genoa, and nearly all 
the cottons from the Levant are imported by way of Trieste, where 
there is a great entrepot of those qualities, and formerly a much more 
considerable importation was counted, but the low prices of cotton in 
America during the years 1840, 1844, 1848, 1849, and 1850, have 
broken up the culture of cotton in the countries of the Levant. 

Before the opening of the railroad from Genoa to Novara, a great 
deal of the cotton from the United States came in by way of Trieste, 
and was sent to Milan by the river Po as far as Mantua, and after- 
wards, by wagon, to its destination; but now the transport by rail- 
road furnishes a more rapid and economical way, and has annihilated 
the commerce of Trieste as regards that article, Genoa being much 
nearer to Milan and possessing superior advantages, although the 
entire line of railway from Milan to Venice and Trieste is now open. 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 81 

The transportation from Genoa to Milan, including all expenses of 
discharging, warehousing, &c, is calculated at ^ cent per dollar on 
the American pound, while, on the contrary, the transportation from 
Trieste to Milan would cost twice as much and take twice the time. 

At Genoa cotton is bought directly through brokers, without other 
expense than a commission of one-half of 1 per cent , and is imported 
at less expense from the country of its growth than at either Trieste 
or Venice. 

The first importation of United States cotton into Genoa dates from 
1827, by our house of Ponti, a member of which was, in that year, at 
New Orleans, making direct purchases, and afterwards, in 1841, the 
writer of this resided in the United States for the long period of 
eleven years, and carried on trade in this article by way of the Medi- 
terranean, bringing the consumption up to the point at which it now 
is, while the previous consumption was only one-quarter American to 
three-quarters Levant. Now many of the largest spinners import 
cotton direct from the United States, and are able to furnish a good 
supply to the smaller spinners. 

In Lombardy we count 33 spinning mills of 800 horse-power, 500 
mule jennies, and 140,000 spindles; of this number the province of 
Milan contains 18 mills of 450 horse-power, 300 mule jennies, and 
80,000 spindles ; the remaining 15 mills are scattered through the 
adjoining provinces of Bergamo, Brescia, Soudoro, and Como. 

Our Ponti mill, at Gallavati and Solbrata Alona, is the oldest, and 
dates from 1810. It counts 18,000 spindles, and is the most extensive 
in Lombardy. The yarn spun ranges from No. 2 to No. 34. The 
weight and quality are established on the same footing as in England. 
All its product is consumed in Lombardy and Venice. 

The yarns of all the Lombardian spinneries are consumed either in 
the iabrication of very common stuffs, made of Nos. 2, 4, 8, or 10, which 
the peasants carry to their homes to be worked up during the winter, 
making themselves their supply of cloth, or by contractors or whole- 
sale merchants. 

The merchandise fabricated by the large manufacturers may be 
estimated at 300 000 pieces of domestics ; 6,000 pieces of velvets ; 
150,000 pieces of fustian ; 170,000 pieces of shirtings ; 150,000 pieces 
of cottonades; 80,000 pieces of other coarse tissues, and for consump- 
tion in our country. 

The length of the piece cannot be given, for the reason that each 
manufacturer has his own measure; but it may be estimated at an 
average of sixty yards. 

The principal villages of production are: Gallavate, for fustians; 
Busta, for domestics, fustians, and other stuffs; and Monza, for cotton- 
ades. These villages are all in the province of Milan, and it may be 
said that they manufacture enough for the requirements of all the 
other provinces of Lombardy and a good part of Venice. However, 
many inhabitants of the country also buy yarns of very coarse descrip- 
tions for the fabrication of heavy goods, such as socks, bonnetry, &c. 
The number of looms worked at Gallavate, Busta, and Monza, is 
estimated at 18,000, and nearly all the cultivaters become weavers as 
soon as they have finished their field work. 

Ex. Doc. 35 6 



82 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

The piece costs from one dollar to one dollar and a quarter, accord- 
ing to the fineness of quality, and there are, at the least, 5,000 families 
who are supplied in this manner. Labor with us is so cheap because 
it is thus employed at hours and seasons when there is nothing else- 
where to do, and particularly by those members of the families who do 
not till the soil, that is to say, by children under eight years, and by 
the aged people above 60 years old. 

The most extensive manufacturing firms are those of our house and 
of M. Turati. It was the first named which introduced, in the year 
1808, the fabrication of fustians into Lombardy, with which the lower 
classes of people are at present clothed. 

Accept, sir, our most devoted salutations. 

ANTONIO & ANDREA PONTI. 

Milan, October 7, 1857. 

The importation of cotton yarns and manufactured goods, par- 
ticularly those which are bleached or colored, is discouraged by the 
imposition of duties, which are in some cases heavy, and in others, 
absolutely prohibitive. 

Up to the 30th June, 1856, the quantity of unbleached yarn im- 
ported, was 50,883 Zoll centners, equal to 5,615,189 pounds, upon 
which the duty paid was 6 florins ($2 91) per centner ; for the 
remainder of the year, the import amounted to 61,855 Zoll centners, 
or 6,826,009 pounds, on which the duty paid was 5 florins, or ($2 42.) 
The total value was 6,764,280 florins, 'or $2,279,675 ; while the total 
duty paid was 614,573 florins, or $298,067. 

Of bleached, but not dyed yarn, the import for the year was only 
3,249 Zoll centners, or 353,543 pounds, paying a duty of 10 florins 
($4 85) the Zoll centner, and its value was 324,900 florins, or 
$157,576, paying a total cluty of 32,490 florins, or $15,757. Of 
dyed yarn and twist, the import was 1,211 Zoll centners or 133,641 
pounds. It was valued at 157,430 florins, or $76,353, which, at the 
duty of 12 florins, 30 kreutzers, or $6 06 the Zoll centner, yielded 
a revenue of 15,137 florins, or $7,341. 

Of this description, there were imported under "the free trade with 
the Zollverein States," 15,772 Zoll centners, or 1,740,520 pounds ; 
which paid only 2 florins 30 kreutzers, or $1 22 duty, the Zoll 
centner. Its value was 2,050,360 florins, or $994,424, and the revenue 
derived from it amounted to 39,430 florins, or $19,054. 

On bleached, but not dyed yarns, coming in under the same 
arrangement with the Zollverein States, the duty is only 2 florins, 30 
kreutzers, or $1 22, while on unbleached yarns it is levied at the 
same rate. 

Trieste being a free port, with an extensive trade with the Levant, 
Bosnia, Servia and Wallachia, there is a considerable demand for such 
qualities and descriptions of yarns, as could not, if sent into the 
Austrian markets, at all enter into competition with those of domestic 
production by reason of the enormous duties. The yarns destined for 
Trieste are generally put up in packages of 10 pounds English. 

But jealous as the Austrian government shows itself as to competi- 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 83 

tion with its domestic produce of cotton yarns and twist, it is still 
more so with regard to the introduction of cotton fabrics and tissues ; 
and although it has not gone to the length that France has done, of 
prohibiting absolutely and in express language, their introduction 
within its territory, the same object is attained by the imposition of a 
scale of duties which are virtually prohibitive. Thus, on the most 
ordinary description of cotton stuffs, "raw, unbleached, undyed, and 
unprinted," the duty imposed amounts to 40 florins ($19 44) the Zoll 
centner. On articles of middling fineness, dressed, bleached, dyed, 
&c, 75 florins ($36 24) the Zoll centner. If from the States of the 
Zollverein, 45 florins ($21 84.) Muslins printed, 100 florins, or 
($48 24,) the Zoll centner. If from the "free trade of the Zollverein 
States," 45 florins, ($21 84.) Bobbinets, English tulles, laces and 
embroideries, 250 florins, or $121 25, the Zoll centner. It from 
the "free trade of the Zollverein States," 200 florins, or $97. And 
if from the privileged factories of Venice, 228 florins 40 kreutzers, 
or $110 90. 

With such duties to contend against, it is not to be wondered at 
that the entire importation of all such fabrics and tissues into the 
Austrian empire, with its 39,500,000 inhabitants, only amounted, 
in 1856, to 7,768 Zoll centners, or 857,237 pounds, of the value 
of 1,769,680 florins, or $858,295, while the revenue amounted to 
649,259 florins, or $314,890. 



SARDINIA. 

Although somewhat later in the adoption of cotton spinning, and the 
other branches of manufacture of which our great staple furnishes the 
material, than many of the continental states, Sardinia exhibits a 
healthy state of progress, if an opinion may be formed from the con- 
sumption of cotton wool, in proportion to the population, which, at 
the last census, was under five millions. It must be remembered that 
this industry is carried on almost exclusively in Piedmont, while in 
Genoa^ Savoy, and the island of Sardinia it is scarcely, if at all, known. 

The mills are^ for the most part, to be found at or near the town of 
Arona, on Lake Maggiore. So far as I could learn, no industrial 
census of the kingdom is taken, and the number of mills, spindles^ 
looms, and employes was unknown to all those with whom I conversed 
on the subject. An extensive importer of cotton at Genoa was kind 
enough to promise me such statistics on these points as he could pro- 
cure among his customers, but they have not yet come to hand. 

The latest official publication relative to the import and export of 
cotton wool, yarns, and tissues, is the Movimento Commercials del 1855, 
(Commercial Movement for 1855,) published by the ministry of finance 
in 1857, which is preceded by some preliminary observations and com- 
parisons of results with those of former years. Of cotton it is said: 

" This class is one of the most important, by value, and the number 
of commercial contracts to which it gives rise, and of which the united 
values of the importations and exportations is 40,526^512 livres. 



84 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

($7,537,931,) with an increase of 6| per cent, on the last triennial 
mean, and of 3| per cent, on the import of the preceding year." 

The accompanying table, marked A, compiled from the official 
publication above cited, will show the quantity and value of the cotton 
wool imported into Sardinia, and the countries whence it came. It 
will be seen that more than half of it was derived from the United 
States, while there can be no doubt that by far the greater portion of 
that reported as coming from France, England, Belgium, &c., was 
also of the growth of this country. The table marked B, also from 
the same official source, exhibits the import, export, and consumption 
of cotton for the six years beginning with 1850, and ending with 1855. 
The exportation of the last year named showed an increase of 23 per 
cent, in the triennial mean, and of 30 per cent, when compared with the 
year 1854. Mr. Herbremont, the consul at Genoa, kindly furnished me 
with a statement of the quantities of cotton imported direct into that 
city from ports of the United States during the year 1856, and the three 
quarters of 1857, ending with the 30th September, by which it appears 
that the amount received in 1856 was 39,659 bales, which, at 450 
pounds per bale, (a moderate estimate,) would amount to 17,844,300 
pounds ; which, with the supplies derived from France, England, &c, 
would go to show a largely increased consumption, compared with the 
previous year. 

Up to September 30, 1857, the direct importation had reached 
25,064 bales, which, at the average above assumed, would give 
11,278,800 pounds of the raw material from the United States alone. 
There was, probably, a falling off in the receipts of this year in Sar- 
dinia, owing to the short crop of our country and the high prices, as 
was the case in other European countries. 

The export of raw cotton in the year 1855 was, altogether, 4,134,555 
kilogrammes, or 9,096,021 pounds ; of which 3,722,780 kilogrammes, 
or 8,290,116 pounds, were sent into the Austrian empire. The quan- 
tity, therefore, left for consumption was 9,921,639 pounds. 

If the estimate of 40 pounds of the raw material per year, to each 
spindle, be applied to Sardinia, the result would be 260,000, which 
is probably near the truth. 

From all I could learn, the qualities of the yarns spun, tissues 
woven, wages paid, &c, resemble closely the same branches of the 
industry in Lombardy. 

The duty on cotton yarns imported is regulated according to the 
degree of fineness, it being the object of the government to protect its 
own spinners against competition in the home market. Thus, on un- 
bleached yarn below No. 20, it is 20 centimes, (about 3 T 7 o cents ;) if 
between No. 20 and No. 30, 30 centimes, (about 5 T 6 o cents ;) if between 
No. 33 and 45, 40 centimes, (about 7 T 4 o cents ;) if between 46 and 60, 
50 centimes (about 11 T V cents) the kilogramme, of 2j pounds. 

On twisted yarns, up to No. 32, the duty is also 9fV cents the kilo- 
gramme, and in all other numbers, 70 centimes (about 13 cents) the 
kilogramme. On bleached or dyed yarns, of whatsoever number or 
quality, the duty is 80 centimes, about 15 cents, the kilogramme. 

The accompanying table, marked C, exhibits the imports of 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 85 

cotton yarns, tissues, and other fabrics during the years named. It is 
also compiled from the ''Commercial Movement for 1855." 

It is anticipated by the merchants at Genoa that the importations of 
cotton into that port, direct from the United States, or other countries 
of its growth, will continue to increase, not only to meet a domestic 
demand, but also to supply, by means of the Sardinian railroad, the 
wants of the spinners in the Italian provinces of Austria, and in those 
of Tyrol and the Vorarlberg. 

American shipmasters, however, complain no little at the want of 
liberality on the part of the authorities, as regards the port regula- 
tions, and the monopolies, with their exorbitant charges, which they 
sanction. 

There are few or no direct exchange operations between Sardinia 
and the cotton marts of the United States. Payments are made by 
drafts on London or Paris. The chief articles of export are fruits, 
olive oil, silk, rice, wool, wine, grain, &c. 



86 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



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CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



87 



B. 

A statement of the importation, exportation, and consumption of cotton- 
wool during the years 1850 to 1855 inclusive, derived jrom the "Com 
mercial Movement" of 1855; the weights being reduced to United 
States pounds. 



Tears. 


Importation. 


Exportation. 


Consumption. 


1850 






7,210,940 


1851 


19,019,772 
20,313,018 
21,772,428 
17,490,041 
19,017,660 


9,172,073 
6,722,418 
8,067,110 
6,723,121 
9,096,021 


9,845,939 


1852 


13,590,590 


1853 


14,365,318 


1854 


10,766,930 


1855 


9,923,639 







c. 

A statement of the quantity of cotton yarns, tissues, and other fabrics 
imported into Sardinia during the years specified, taken from the 
" Commercial Movement" for 1855, and the weights reduced to those 
of the United States. 



Years from — 


Cotton yarns. 


Tissues of cot- 
ton, raw or 
bleached. 


T3 
U 

to 
03 

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as "2 

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1844 to 1850 

1851 


218,238 
174,220 
189,455 
175,182 
163,238 
183,588 


298,712 
661,602 
602,261 
562,120 
590,253 
735, 108 


442, 504 
714,459 
786,279 
820,653 
859,883 
949, 432 


566,082 
978,385 
1,414,903 
1,279,989 
1,206.115 
1,340,379 


131,204 
200,367 
207,522 
161,113 
155,784 
187,557 


10,413 
34,434 


1852 


33,944 


1853 


32,555 


1854 


39,197 


1855 


52,490 







BELGIUM. 

There exists no official return of the number of spinning mills, 
spiudles, looms, &c, in the kingdom. An industrial census, very 
imperfect in execution, was taken in 1846, but little reliance seems to 
be placed in the information which it afforded ; besides which there 
has unquestionably been a marked progress in the manufacture of 
cotton since that date. M. Romberg, director of the division of 
industry of the ministry of the interior, in his Annual of Industry, 
Commerce and Banking in Belgium, the first volume of which was 
published last year, makes an approximative estimate, based on the 



88 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

mean consumption of raw cotton at the time he wrote, 22,200,000 
pounds, and in the supposition that each spindle consumed yearly 
forty-four pounds of the raw material, whereby he arrives at the con- 
clusion that their number is about 500,000. It has already been seen 
that cotton spinning was a branch of Belgian industry previous to 
the year 1801, when the first mule jenny was introduced at Ghent. 
The history of that and other departments of cotton manufacture in 
the country, down to the period of the breaking up of the first French 
empire, is to be traced in what has already been said on the same sub- 
jects under the head of France. As a portion of Holland, and since 
her independence of that kingdom, Belgium does not appear to have 
advanced so rapidly in this as she has in several other branches of in- 
dustry, although it has now attained to considerable importance, and 
is on the increase both as to the extent of consumption of raw mate- 
rial and the value of its products. 

The accompanying table, A, is a statement of the quantities of 
cotton wool imported during the six years, beginning with 1850 and 
ending with 1855, with the countries whence it came. The total 
value of the importations in 1855 was 13,541,941 francs, or 2,511,000 
dollars. Of the 10,534,318 kilogrammes, or 23,175,500 pounds, the 
value was 11,418,341 francs, or 2,123,81 1 dollars ; and of the 1,784,964 
kilogrammes, or 3,926,921 pounds in transit, it was 730,407 dollars. 

The quantities of cotton wool in transit during the years 1850 to 
1855, inclusive, was as follows : 

1850 2,580,538 pounds. 

1851 4,140,697 " 

1852 14,230,153 " 

1853 8,044,399 " 

1854 6,836,437 " 

18f.S 3,926,921 " 

The entire importation of cotton yarn in 1855 amounted to 1,662,249 
kilogrammes, or 3,656,948 pounds, of the value of 6,844,095 francs, 
or 1,273,002 dollars. Of this, 194,723 kilogrammes, or 428,391 
pounds, of the value of 1,572,273 francs, or 292,443 dollars were con- 
sumed in the country, and 1,462,205 kilogrammes, or 3,216,851 
pounds, of the value of 5,258,430 francs, or 1,015,268 dollars, was 
in transit. By far the greater portion of this yarn was neither twisted 
nor dyed, and of English production. 

Of the entire exportation for the year, which amounted to 1,784,608 
kilogramme, or 3,926,127 pounds, of the value of 6,323,653 francs, or 
1,236,199 dollars, the Belgian yarns amounted to but 323,403 kilo- 
grammes, or 711,487 pounds, of the value of 1,065,223 francs, or 
198,131 dollars. Of these, 69,683 kilogrammes, or 153,303 pounds 
were not twisted or dyed, and 252,649 kilogrammes, or 555,828 pounds, 
of the value of 164,474 dollars, were twisted and dyed ; and 71 kilo- 
grammes, or 156 pounds, of the value of 6,745 francs, or 1,254 
dollars, were of various descriptions of yarns above No. 140. Much 
the greater part of these yarns were sent into Prussia. 

M. Komberg, in the work above cited, says: " Belgium imports 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE 89 

and exports cotton yarns to an amount nearly equal on each side ; 
(approximatively, 200,000 kilogrammes per year ;) but, as to their 
value, the balance leans very sensibly in favor of the importation. 
The yarns which we receive from abroad are of fine numbers, or 
twisted and dyed, while we send out above all ordinary qualities. 
One would not be far from the truth in estimating the total value of 
the yarns produced by our factories at 26,500,000 francs, or 4,929,000 
dollars." He estimates the average value of the yarns produced at 
2 francs 50 centimes, or 47 cents, the kilogramme, of 2\ pounds, 
which corresponds with the information obtained by me from several 
of the spinners at Ghent, which is the seat of that branch of industry. 
M. Romberg also adopts the opinion that fabrication quadruples the 
value of the raw material used, and considers that the value of Bel- 
gium cotton manufactures, on this hypothesis, would reach from 
48,000,000 to 50,000,000 francs, equal to from 8,928,000 to 9,300,000 
dollars. 

Of cotton tissues, the total import in 1855 was 774,504 kilo- 
grammes, or 1,703,909 pounds, of the value of 11,396,493 francs, or 
2,101,800 dollars ; of which 240,731 kilos, or 529,608 pounds, of the 
value of 3,486,241 francs, or 648,441 dollars, were consumed, and 
533,263 kilos, or 1,173,179 pounds, of the value of 7,903,459 francs, 
or 1,469,400 dollars, were in transit. The export of the same was 
2,222,678 kilos, or 4,889,892 pounds, of the value of 18,882,183 
francs, or 3,496,800 dollars ; of which 1,689,415 kilos, or 3,716,713 
pounds, of the value of 10,978,734 francs, or 2,027,400 dollars, was 
of domestic production. I was told that the articles principally pro- 
duced were twills, pantaloon stuffs, and bleached or unbleached do- 
mestics. 

The above figures, except where credited to the annual of M. Bom- 
berg, are official, and derived from the statement of the commerce of 
Belgium for the year 1855, published in the year 1857, by the min- 
istry of finance. The statement for the year 1856 had not appeared 
up to the 1st of November last. 

At Antwerp, the custom-house authorities were kind enough to 
furnish the following statement of the import of cotton into that port 
between January 1 and October 31, 1857. The weights are reduced 
to our standard. 

For ecnsumption. 

Pounds. 

From Sweden 65,300 

" England 5,305,573 

" English East Indies 3,333,585 

" United States 11,414,955 

" Hayti ." 63,668 

" Brazil 42,242 



Total 20,225,323 



90 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

In warehouse. 

Pounds. 
From the United States 1,098,592 



In transit. 

From England 232,747 

" United States 40,759 



Total 273,506 



The number of people employed in the different branches of the 
cotton manufacture is estimated by M. Romberg to be from 26,000 to 
28,000. The census of 1855 gave the entire population of Belgium 
at 4,607,065. 

At Ghent, I visited the mills of Messrs. Lonsberg and Jules de Hemp- 
tieme; the first named was then running 41,000 spindles, which were 
soon to be increased to 70,000, consuming Louisiana cotton of the 
lower classifications which were converted into yarns No. 30 His im- 
portations were mostly direct. The loss on American cotton for spinning 
was ordinarily 10 per cent. ; on good qualities of Surat, about 15 per 
cent. ; on the inferior qualities, 25 per cent. The waste on American 
cotton is often mixed with East India cotton to make heavy, coarse 
yarns. Of Egyptian, Surinam, and Brazilian cotton the consumption 
is insignificant. Weaving is also carried on, the tissues produced 
being of ordinary low-priced qualities, particularly figured or fa connes 
patterns. Number of hands employed between 1,200 and 1,300 ; 
wages for ordinary hands : men, two francs, (37 cents ;) spinners, 
from three to four francs, (55 to 74 cents ;) weavers, from two francs to 
two and a half francs (37 to 47 cents) per day. For women the wages 
are 25 per cent. less. 

Mr. De Hemptieme consumes East India cotton exclusively, which 
he converts into yarns from No. 4 to No. 18, with a loss in the raw 
material of 20 per cent. Delivered at the mill, it costs about 6c? 
the pound, and he thinks that its consumption will rapidly increase 
in Belgium, as American has reached so high a price. The yarns spun 
are worth, on the average, two francs fifty centimes the kilogramme, 
(46^ cents for 21 pounds,) with a ready sale. The wages paid are, 
for men, from twelve to thirteen francs ($2 23 to $2 40) per week ; 
for boys from four to six francs, (74 cents to $1 12 ;) for women 
drawing frames, seven francs, ($1 30,) and on robinet frames, ten to 
thirteen francs ($1 86 to $2 42) per week. 

On all raw cotton imported into Belgium there is no duty whatever 
levied. On yarns, simple and undyed, from England, valued by law 
at 2/^ francs (46^ cents) the killogramme, the duty is 84yVV francs 
($15 78) the 100 kilogrammes, or 221 pounds — if from other countries 
they are duty free. On twisted and dyed yarn the duty valuation is ten 
francs ($1 86) the kilogramme, and the duty 106 francs ($19 72) per 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 91 

100 kilogrammes, or 221 pounds. On simple and double twist, un- 
bleached, bleached, or dyed, above No. 140 in fineness, the valuation 
is 95 francs ($17 67) the kilogramme, and the duty five francs (93 
cents) per 100 kilogrammes, or 221 pounds. 

On cotton tissues, if unbleached or bleached, the valuation is 14 
francs ($2 60) the kilogramme, and the duty 180 francs 20 centimes 
($33 52) the 100 kilogrammes. On dyed and printed tissues, if of 
Prussian or English fabrication, the valuation is 15 francs ($2 79) the 
kilogramme, and the duty 325 francs ($60 45) the 100 kilogrammes ; 
if of French fabrication, the duty is 212 francs ($39 43) the 100 kilo- 
grammes. From all other countries these articles are free of duty. 

Cotton spinning, like all other branches of industry, is prosperous 
and advancing with the Belgians. Traverse the country in whatever 
direction he may, the traveller scarcely ever loses sight of the tall 
chimneys of the factories, and he is frequently at a loss whether to ad- 
mire most its evidences of high agricultural advancement or those of 
manufacturing activity which meet him at every turn. 

To James Gr. Clarke, esq., acting United States charge d'affaires at 
Brussels, and to M. Lambermont, of the ministry of finance, 1 was 
much indebted for the facilities and information they procured me. 



92 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 



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CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 93 



CONCLUSION. 

In conclusion, it may be said that it would be difficult to over- 
estimate the importance of cotton in the movement of the industry and 
commerce of the civilized world. Since the inventions of Arkwright 
and Watt in England, and Whitney in our own country, its manipu- 
lation and fabrication have become so comparatively easy and cheap, 
and its adaptation to supply the wants or the luxuries of man have 
proved to be so multifarious, that the question of an adequate supply 
of it to the growing demand has become one of the very highest im- 
portance, being exceeded in interest by that of the cereals alone. Its 
influence in the well-being of the masses by furnishing employment, 
sustenance, and cheap clothing, has long since been fully admitted ; 
and such has been the impetus afforded by it to the invention and im- 
provement of manufacturing machinery, that, in his work, before 
quoted, M. Audiganne remarks that, " It was certainly a curious 
sight, that, of the different aliments afforded by cotton to labor, and 
the services rendered to man at this day by this substance, of which 
the consumption has increased tenfold four or five times in less than 
sixty years. Cotton is manufactured among the greater part of the 
nations that figured at our side in the Palace of Industry. Nearly all 
had sent there samples of their fabrication — samples more or less nu- 
merous, more or less remarkable, but always worthy of attentive ex- 
amination. The degree of advancement of each people in the career of 
industry might he measured by its skill in the treatment of cotton," 

Illustrating its commercial and political influence as between the 
United States and Great Britain, Dr. Engel says of it: "That England 
and the United States are bound together by a single thread of cotton, 
which, weak and fragile as it may appear, is, nevertheless, stronger 
than an iron cable." 

No wonder, then, that the question of the adequate supply of this 
mighty and all-powerful agent soars at this day so tar above many 
which, at the beginning of the present century, far outranked it in 
their bearings upon the interests of civilized man ; and it may not, in 
this connexion, be deemed out of place to allude, briefly, to the his- 
tory of the supply in Great Britain, which has long been the principal 
receiver of the raw material, not only to meet her own growing de- 
mands, but to be distributed, to some extent, among those European 
countries which commercial supremacy has made tributary to her. 

Cotton planters and manufacturers are alike under great obligations 
to Mr. Joseph Rudworth Sharp, F. H. S., of London, for his valuable 
tables, published in September last, which exhibit in a clear and com- 
prehensive manner the gross amount of receipts per year, with quin- 
quennial averages, and the countries of production of the cotton wool 
received in the United Kingdom, &c, from the year 1821 up to 1855. 
These tables are admirably arranged, and must have cost an immense 
amount of labor to their compiler ; and with full acknowledgment of 
the very great aid they have been to me, the second of them is an- 
nexed hereto, as affording, in a clear and succinct form, the best in- 
formation attainable on that subject. 



94 CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUROPE. 

It will be seen from this statement how vast has been our own con- 
tribution of the raw material to Great Britain and Europe generally, 
and how much more reliable as a source of supply our cotton fields are 
than those of any or all other countries, as their production between 
1851 and 1855 was five times that of the East Indies, and that while 
during that period all other countries exported to Great Britain 
937,024,275 pounds, our own sent her 3,424,502,024 pounds, or more 
than three and a half times as much. 

In his first table, Mr. Sharp sets down the import from the United 
States into the United Kingdom, in 1856, at 780,040,016 pounds, that 
from the East Indies at 180,496,624 pounds, and the total from all 
other countries than the United States at 243,846,512 pounds, leaving 
a balance in our favor of 536,193,504 pounds, and also showing that 
in that year also we contributed more than three times as much to 
European supply than all other countries combined, while it must be 
remembered that our domestic consumption was advancing so rapidly 
as to require for its use 652,739 bales, which, estimated at 450 pounds 
each, were equal to 293,732,550, or more than the import into England 
that year from all other countries than our own. 

Mr. Samuel S. Littlefield, the editor of the New Orleans Price 
Current, than whom there is no better informed or more reliable 
authority on the subject of cotton and the cotton trade, in the Union, 
estimates the value of our crop of 1857 — 2,931,519 bales, after making 
all allowances for differences in their weights in different sections of 
the country, at an average of $50 per bale, making the total sum of 
$146,975,950. This gentleman has also furnished me with much in- 
teresting information, and several valuable suggestions. 

From what has been said under the various heads of this report, the 
following conclusions as to the influence of raw cotton among the na- 
tions who are our chief customers for it may be drawn : 

1st. That it contributes vastly to their social well-being by furnish- 
ing labor, sustenance, and cheap and comfortable clothing to many 
thousands of their subjects or citizens. 

2d. That to commerce it contributes immensely by furnishing a 
great variety of articles, by which its exchanges are in a considerable 
degree regulated, and large profits continually realized. That to 
capital it offers the means of profitable investment and returns, and 
aids greatly in its accumulation. 

3d. That its political influence arises from the fact, that by opening 
and extending commercial relations, between different nations, it has 
created sympathies and ties of common interest, which makes the 
policy of peace and its attendant blessings one far more easy to main- 
tain than was once the case ; that it adds to the national wealth and 
resources, and by furnishing employment and support to many thou- 
sands who might otherwise be without cither, it makes contented those 
who would, through idleness or suffering, become burdens to the state. 

4th. That the permanent and adequate supply of raw cotton thus 
becomes to Great Britain and continental Europe, a subject of vital 
importance, and indeed, of absolute necessity ; and that any consider- 
able dimunition in the crop of the United States, would cause the 



CONSUMPTION OF COTTON IN EUKOPE, 95 

gravest inconveniences, while the occurrence of any state of things 
whereby it should be entirely cut off, would be followed by social, 
commercial, and political revulsions, the effects of which can scarcely 
be imagined. 

With high consideration, I am, sir, your obedient servant, 

JOHN CLAIBORNE. 

Washington City, January 22, 1858. 



9G 



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